London

E Pellicci

Myth 4 ‘The traditional East End has gone forever’
Brick Lane Mosque
It’s a plain Georgian building but typifies the ever-changing surrounding population. Built first as a church in 1743 by Huguenot Protestants who’d fled Catholic persecution in France, it was then used from 1897 as a synagogue by Jews escaping the pogroms in Eastern Europe before the most recent influx of immigrants – the Bangladeshis – turned it into a mosque in 1976.
59 Brick Lane (020 7247 6052) Aldgate East tube. Feature continues

The Camel
Used during the war as a kids club (membership of the Camel Club was a penny a week), and proof that not everything in the East End that escaped being bombed was pulled down, this wonderful watering hole was saved from demolition by a 500-strong petition. It’s now an independent boozer – sensitively renovated by the current owners – though the menu’s been brought into the twenty-first century – offering pie and mash, gourmet-style.
277 Globe Rd, E2 (020 8983 9888) Bethnal Green tube. Open Mon-Sat 12noon-11pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm. Pies served until 9pm.

Faulkner’s
Traditional fish and chips can be hard to find in the capital, so treasure this takeaway and restaurant all the more. The fish, everything from good old cod to seabass and salmon, is so fresh it practically leaps from the table, while matronly waitresses and homely puds (spotted dick, sherry trifle…) complete the perfectly nostalgic package.
424-426 Kingsland Rd, E8 (020 7254 6152) Dalston Kingsland rail. Open Mon-Fri 12noon-2.30pm, 5-10pm; Sat 11.30am-10pm; Sun 12noon-9pm.

Hackney Empire
Built in 1901 and a marvel for its time (Electric lights! In-built projection box! Central heating!) this music hall has had Charlie Chaplin, Marie Lloyd and Louis Armstrong treading its boards. Since then, it’s served as a Mecca bingo hall and television studio, before becoming a theatre again in 1986. An extensive fund-raising campaign saved it from demolition and a subsequent £17 million renovation returned the Empire to its former variety-theatre glory in 2004. Future productions include ‘Cinderella’, a pantomime, and Billy Bragg in concert.
291 Mare St, E8 (020 8510 4500/www.hackneyempire.co.uk) Bethnal Green tube.

E Pellicci
Run by the Pellicci family since 1900 (Nevio senior, the current owner and patriarch, was born upstairs) this East End institution is a cultural collision of typical caff fare and Italian cuisine at proper café prices that’s beloved by taxi drivers and TV stars alike. The interior – all ornate wooden art deco-style marquetry panels and laminated tables – received Grade II English Heritage listing last year.
332 Bethnal Green Rd, E2 (020 7739 4873) Bethnal Green tube. Open Mon-Sat 6.15am-5pm.