Myth 6 ‘It’s all right to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there’
The Grocer
The bottom of Kingsland Road isn’t the prettiest part of town, but it does have this winning local shop. Stocking everything from fresh fruit and veg (delivered five days a week) to well-chosen wine and baking goods, around 70 per cent of the stock is organic and it’s open all day, every day. Organic local café Smallfish is opening in a soon-to-be converted space alongside in early December.
54-56 Kingsland Rd, E2 (020 7729 6855) Old St tube/rail, then 43, 55, 243 bus. Open daily 8am-10pm.
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Ridley Road Market
Real East Enders know that, when it comes to fruit and veg, markets rule and supermarkets suck. Commonly known by locals as Dalston Market, RRM is as diverse as those who do their weekly shops here. Seek and find Jewish, Asian, cockney, Turkish, African and Caribbean fruit, veg and meat, plus cheap clothes and furnishings.
Ridley Rd, E8. Dalston Kingsland rail. Open Mon-Sat.
Old Spitalfields Market
The City side has been spruced up and rebuilt, home now to Leon, Canteen and a Fine Food market. There are more stalls than ever (and some ace shops too – see Consume p153 for our east London shopping extravaganza), while Brick Lane and the UpMarket in the Truman Brewery are reason enough to want to live here.
www.spitalfields.org.uk
Mangal
The kind of local where you’ll ‘more often than not see Gilbert & George’, say regulars (G&G are big, big fans). The original in this Turkish chain is still the best, and cheap to boot.
10 Arcola St, E8 (020 7275 8981) Dalston Kingsland rail. Open 12noon-12midnight daily.
St John Bread and Wine
The even-more-relaxed Spitalfields branch of this nose-to-tail eaterie offers takeaway, though it’s possible to walk in and get a table booking. Crispy pig’s cheek or quail and aioli beat greasy pizza any day. The Smoked Gloucester Old Spot bacon sandwich makes for a spot-on breakfast.
94-96 Commercial St, E1 (020 7251 0848/www.stjohnbreadandwine.com) Liverpool St tube/rail. Meals served Mon-Fri 9am-10.30pm; Sat 10am-10.30pm; Sun10am-5pm.
Today Is Boring
Part retro living room, part super-cool DVD rental shop. It claims to be the antithesis of Blockbuster, and to be fair, putting on an annual ‘Twin Peaks’ marathon does strengthen its case. You can join up for the great film events at Bistrotheque. Don’t expect your usual blockbuster tat here, though: it’s serious about proper films.
15 Kingsland Rd, E2 (020 7684 146) Old St tube/rail.
Walluc
New owners took over some four months ago, but first things first: the basement loo is smelly, the tables wobble, it may take two tries to get the meal you asked for and the friendly waiter may not speak any English. But on a cobbled backstreet, this tiny corner bistro offers Swiss-Italian food, and masses of it, for barely a bean. The truly ironic will opt for raclette or fondue, but if you’re on a budget, the plates of pasta easily feed two people.
40 Redchurch St E2 (020 7729 6070) Old St tube/rail. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm.
1 comment
It is a myth, however, that Shoreditch Tube still exists (re: Le Trois Garcons et Loungelover)