London

Covent Garden
Cross Keys
If you only go to one…
In Covent Garden you have to battle your way into pubs, although in the case of this Endell Street fixture it’ll be through the shrubbery (1). The Cross Keys is probably London’s most fascinating pub for bric-a-brac. As well as pop curios, there are miniature portraits of PMs, unattributed Victorian oil paintings, diving helmets, stuffed fish, a brass privy… Brian, the owner, is an antiques enthusiast who made the most of Bonhams auctioneers being round the corner (it’s now Shellys shoes); his most recent addition is a selection of signed, framed letters by David Beckham.
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John Devlin has been landlord for 20 years, having first helped Brian out at The Old Coffee House, Beak Street (signed photos of Lloyd Honeyghan a speciality). The Cross Keys pre-dates him by 140 years, an early arrival on a street that was built as a philanthropic measure to clear the slums. Since then it has hosted market traders, brickmakers and office workers, but has remained more or less the same under Devlin’s watch. So has the clientele, though Devlin is concerned about how the smoking ban might affect his faithful band of old-timers.
Devlin sees the encroaching chain pubs and style bars as a mixed threat. If they represent competition, they could also drive people seeking a proper drink into the enveloping darkness of this paragon of an old-fashioned pub. Gabriel Tate

Best drink Harvey’s Sussex Best.
When to go An early weekday lunch.
Best seat In the far corner, facing away from the distracting telly.
Best snack Doorstep sandwich.
31 Endell St, WC2 (020 7836 5185).

Lowlander
This Low Countries bar (2) with a high ceiling is a must for the serious drinker, offering a staggering array of Dutch and Belgian beers.

Best drink The formidable Rochefort 10 Trappist beer.
When to go Early evening, to secure a couch.
Best seat Couches at the edge of the balcony – settle in and enjoy the table service.
Best snack Olives.
36 Drury Lane, WC2 (020 7379 7446).

Freemason’s Arms
Shepherds Neame ales, served in quick and friendly fashion, make this a decent bolthole (3). Football fact: the FA was founded here.

Best drink Masterbrew.
When to go For an England game, to enjoy the sense of history before the inevitable letdown.
Best seat Leather couches at the far end.
Best snack Onion rings or cheesy chips.
81-82 Long Acre, WC2 (020 7836 3115).

Nag's Head, Covent Garden

Nag’s Head
The nearest pub (4) to Covent Garden tube so consequently very busy. The 1970s flock wallpaper represents a pleasingly outdated antidote to the stripped pine of many nearby hostelries.

Best drink McMullen’s Country Best.
When to go Weekday afternoons in winter.
Best seat Couches by the window.
Best snack Big bags of peanuts.
10 James St, WC2 (020 7836 4678).

Coach & Horses
The hurling and golf photos at this unobtrusive Irish pub (5) seem a little fuzzy, but that may be just from sampling some of the 70-plus whiskeys.

Best drink 16-year-old Lagavulin.
When to go Saturday afternoons.
Best seat Round table by the bar to test your resolve as hot roast beef sizzles nearby.
Best snack Tavern crisps.
42 Wellington St, WC2 (020 7240 0553).