London

Bloomsbury and Holborn
Princess Louise
If you only go to one…
Probably London’s best-looking pub, the Princess Louise (1) (named after Queen Vic’s fourth daughter) was built in 1872 but its spectacular decor dates to 1891 and is now ‘a monument to the craftsmanship that was taken for granted in the 1890s’ as one pub guide puts it. There are magnificent mirrors (by Richard Morris of Kennington) and gorgeous mosaics (by Simpsons & Sons of St Martin’s Lane), an amazing ceiling and a glorious horseshoe bar. It’s worth hunting this gem out as soon as you can – from March it will be closed for a nine-month refurburbishment. We’re assured that Sam Smith’s isn’t going to attempt anything drastic, merely return the pub to its original glory as one of London’s architectural treasures.
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Best drink Sam Smith’s Taddy lager.
When to go When you want to drink in a cathedral to booze.
Best seat Standing by the fire, resting on the mantelpiece, marvelling at your surroundings.
Best snack McCoy’s crisps.
208-209 High Holborn, WC1 (020 7405 8816).

The Old Crown, Holborn

The Old Crown
Not to be confused with The Crown (a cosy little Sam Smith’s joint, just down the road towards Oxford Street), this split level pub (2) is at the smart end of the spectrum but doesn’t cross the line into gastropub pretentious nonsense.

Best drink Hit the spirits – the shots list runs to more than 200 varieties.
When to go Midweek, post-work if you’re looking for somewhere lively rather than quiet.
Best seat To be honest, if there’s a gang of you and you want your own space, it’s worth hiring one of the upstairs function rooms – you get your own bar that way.
Best snack There’s a range of ciabatta sandwiches.
33 New Oxford St, WC1 (020 7836 9121).

The Plough
A noisy bar (3) at the back with young people and a fruit machine; a more spacious, traditional pub dining room with old couples, tourists and young men in jumpers at the front. You’ll probably want the latter. There’s loud music later in the week.

Best drink Of the five quite conventional ales (Bombardier, Abbot, Pride) and usual selection of pub lagers on tap, Pride is the most popular.
When to go If you’re a fan, enjoy guaranteed crowds when the football’s on. Otherwise, avoid.
Best seat See above.
Best snacks Pork scratchings.
27 Museum St, WC1 (020 7636 7964).

Museum Tavern
The current Museum Tavern (4) dates back to 1855 and was originally laid out as five separate bars. Although it was knocked through into one open space in the 1960s, it still retains its historic character. Etched mirrors behind the bar bear the legend ‘Watneys Imperial’. Ales are taken seriously: three regulars and three guests. Ales coming up include: Bishops Finger, Batemans XXB, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Old Speckled Hen. A good whisky selection too. Not as tourist-heavy as you might expect in spite of being opposite the British Museum. Expect 70:30 in favour of tourists at lunchtime but the reverse in the evenings. Ask if you want to borrow a board game to go with your pint; chefs from the British Museum often come here to wind down over a game of chess.

Best drink Be patriotic with London Pride.
When to go With no jukebox, this is a quieter option for a Friday night.
Best seat There’s a cosy corner to the left of the main doors.
Best snacks Walkers, Nobby’s nuts and pickled eggs on request.
49 Great Russell St, WC1 (020 7242 8987).