London

Coral satin volumionus frock coat, Roksanda Ilinicic

Today's hits and misses

By the third morning of fashion week, feet were beginning to ache and emotions fray, but the fash pack were quickly pacified at Roksanda Illincic’s graceful presentation of dream frocks at swanky St James’ restaurant Quaglinos. Befitting for Valentine's Day, guests were ushered to round tables where breakfast (posh scotch eggs and asparagus), bellinis and champagne truffles awaited. The clothes were tasty too. The Serbian designer who studied at Central Saint Martins and looks like a supermodel, delivered more signature fitted cocktail dresses, trimmed with netting, while short fitted satin skirts were worn with her voluminous smock tops. Ilincic is one of those designers who sticks to what she does best – decadent dresses - without deviating from the theme. This year they nodded gently towards Lanvin, the classic French fashion label designed by Alber Elbaz. Feature continues

Hamish Morrow's pared down, sophisticated black

Over in South Kensington and Hamish Morrow made a triumphant return to the London catwalks after three years absent. The super-talented designer, who treats cutting as an art form, has been selling his beautifully mad collection to niche shops since he's been off the schedule. Now that he's back, he's doing things in a grown-up and focused way. His entire collection of wrap dresses and blouses with cutaway backs was black. All very understated and luxurious.

Even Basso and Brooke, designers known for their flamboyant creations and kinky digital prints, went all grown-up and sophisticated this season. Where were all the usual circus theatrics? It seems now the pair (Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke) have secured everyone’s attention they are going to use it wisely. This time there were plenty of wearable clothes – among them sweet trapeze dresses with and mosaic prints, plain halter dresses with intricately crocheted backs and soft tailored suits.