London

Best shows | Top trends

There was a feeling of anticipation in the air this year – the week was building up for the finale, Marc by Marc Jacobs show, and fashion people were tentatively avoiding puddles to keep their best shoes all smart for Friday night. This season more than ever there seemed to be a contrast between the old school establishment such as Betty Jackson, Jasper Conran and Paul Smith and the testy, daring newcomers like the charming Duoro Olowu and his fabulous vivid prints; the sexed-up glamour of Christopher Kane and punchy young edge of New York based Diane von Furstenbeg designer Nathan Jenden, who was launching his own label collection in London. Feature continues

Louise Goldin for Fashion East

Best shows

1. Christopher Kane – charming, sexy and ultra-polished. Kane lived up to the hype with remarkable style and a collection that looked smart enough to appear on the runways of Milan.

2. Jonathan Saunders – sleek and refined column dresses with graduated prints, proving he is back on form.

3. Peter Jensen – understated, modern elegance inspired by a 16th century Danish princess.

4. Giles - slightly inconsistent in its theme but the exquisite craftsmanship of each outfit was inspiring. Every dress told a different story.

5. Mario Schwab – his figure hugging dresses in techo-fabrics and eye-catching bejewelled coast had a strong, modern feel.

6. Fashion East – Daniella Scutt, Louise Goldin or House of Holland…we can’t make up our minds who we love the most. Fashion East’s MAN show also rocked with a dynamic video presentation from Carri Casette Playa and delectable urban clothes from Siv Stodal.

7. Douro Olowu – a welcome flourish of colour and life on the first day of fashion week.

8. Jens Laugesen – proving he is a master cutter, Laugesen softened-up his ultra sharp-tailoring just a little with some pretty floaty evening dresses. We want them all.

9. Gavin Douglas – sleek and sexy take on 1940s glamour have put newcomer Douglas firmly on the London fashion map.

10. Basso & Brooke – glad to see the boys of wacky prints have reigned in their style to create some seriously wearable outfits.