London

The Aquascutum line-up

Novelty ticket
Marc by Marc Jacobs. Yes the usual lovely, geeky chic clothes - this time silk shift dresses with ruffled bibs and double-breasted belted macs in biscuit - but we know it was simply some well-timed publicity to launch your new Mayfair shop Mr Jacobs. Unless of course you are going to show in London from now on? We don't think so.

Most wearable…
Aquascutum’s sleek, luxurious pieces designed by Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler which included updates on the traditional heritage mac; dresses inspired by The Nutcracker ballet and fitted leather corsets worn with casual waterproof raincoats. Feature continues

Most fun…
Joint award must go to Antoni & Alison’s upbeat pub presentation and Manish Arora’s vibrant celebration of colour and print.

Welcome back
Eley Kishimoto and Hamish Morrow doing what they do best. Good to see Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto back on the catwalk after a year's break doing more of their wonderful, flamboyant prints. Likewise, we are thrilled to see Hamish Morrow back - his graceful, beautifully constructed dresses with body-flattering cuts.

Roksanda Ilincic's glossy patent shoes

Top trends

Metallics – gold with the odd dash of silver or bronze, glowing metallics are back in a big way from Noir to Sinha-Stanic via Roksanda Illincic.

Hot pink – glorious Schiaparelli pink cropped up across the catwalks from Paul Smith to Preen.

Glossy black – in the form of glossy fabrics, patent leather stilettos and organza dresses, black is back but as shiny as can be.

Shiny fabrics - organza, silk satin and nylon ruled.

Blazers – think padded shoulders and nipped-in waists – as seen at Todd Lynn and Jens Laugesen.

1970s glamour – big hair and high heels everywhere.

Late 1980s/eary 1990s – Carri Castette Playa, Henry Holland and pals can’t get enough of that neon and rave revival. Preen, meanwhile have been reviving that sleek, short skirted silhouette that was prevalent around the same time along with Mario Schwab and Richard Nicoll.

PVC – a Gareth Pugh prompted trend that seems to have trickled down to many of the London designers this season.

Padding – one of those trends that looks great on the catwalk and fashion people describe as 'voluminous' but dodgy on real women with curves.

Leather – sexy, fitted and textured – make that woven embossed or tooled in the form of skinny trousers, blazers and corsets.