Angel of the North
Who says it's grim up north? People who have never been there, that's who. It's anything but: historic castles, beautiful beaches, cosmopolitan shopping, lively nightlife and gourmet cuisine are but a few of the many delights cities like Edinburgh, Leeds, Newcastle and York have to offer. Here's a guide to ten brilliant weekend breaks north of Watford
Angel of the North
Take a look at Aberdeen, Berwick-Upon-Tweed, Durham, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Leeds, Newcastle, Peterborough, York
Aberdeen
GOOD FOR: castle trails, granite grandeur, and North Sea breeze
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| View over the city |
When you emerge from Aberdeen’s railway station you are within a couple of hundred yards of oil rig supply vessels berthed at the Upper Harbour, and the same distance from the main street. The relationship that defines this city’s history and identity is its love affair with the North Sea, best explored at the Maritime Museum on the Shiprow.
The displays tell the tale of sailing ships, the fishing industry, and the advent of the oil business from the 1970s which brought a more cosmopolitan prosperity to a provincial but independently-minded area. With its predominantly silver-granite architecture, such as the neo-Gothic spires of the 19th century Marischal College, Aberdeen looks different from anywhere else in Britain. The history here is deep: Provost Skene’s House on Guestrow dates to the 16th century, King’s College Chapel in Old Aberdeen is late 15th century, while there has been a religious building on the site of St Machar’s Cathedral since the Dark Ages. The city prides itself on its parks and gardens, offers some excellent golf (especially on the links course at Murcar), and has all the shopping and entertainment facilities you would expect.
The programme at His Majesty’s Theatre has everything from opera and ballet to plays and pantomime; the Lemon Tree is a small but thriving arts centre that hosts dance, theatre, comedy and a wide range of music; bigger concerts take place at the Exhibition and Conference Centre with everyone from The Killers to Girls Aloud appearing in 2007. Alternatively, visitors can experience that famous North Sea breeze by walking on the city’s ample beach which runs for more than two miles from the harbour entrance to the mouth of the River Don in the north.
Nearby: If you follow the River Dee west you reach the attractive villages of Banchory and Ballater, the Royal Family’s holiday home at Balmoral, then eventually Braemar in the heart of the Grampian Mountains. In fact so many historic castles are within easy reach – Crathes, Craigievar, or Drum for example – that there is an official Castle Trail.
Tourist information: VisitScotland, Exchange House, 26/28 Exchange Street, AB11 6PH (01224 288 828/www.visitscotland.com)
Berwick-upon-Tweed
GOOD FOR: seal-watching, rambling the ramparts, and River Tweed reflections
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| The atmospheric Holy Island |
Berwick-upon-Tweed might not be a big town, but it is big on historical treasure. For hundreds of years this was the most fought-over piece of real estate in the Old World, apart perhaps from Jerusalem. Straddling the River Tweed, perched on the North Sea coast the Scots and English battled to take possession of an initially prosperous port until it finally settled into English hands in the 15th century. Even later, during the reign of Elizabeth I, there were still security concerns about marauding Caledonians which is why the town’s main attraction these days is its encircling 16th century system of ramparts and defensive bastions. Built to withstand artillery siege, visitors can take a walk around the top of the ramparts and reflect on a time when things were a little less peaceful in what is now England’s northernmost town.
The Elizabethan defences are not the only legacy of Berwick-upon-Tweed’s frontier status however as you can still also see fragments of the older town wall, and the ruins of its 12th century castle.
Aside from the historical interest there is a lively theatre and arts centre, The Maltings, which stages everything from classical music performances to cinema screenings and ballet. The other cultural centre of gravity is Berwick Barracks, an early 18th century complex based on designs by Nicholas Hawksmoor. Here you will find the Borough Museum, the regimental museum of the King’s Own Scottish Borderers, and the Gymnasium Gallery with its changing roster of exhibitions.
Nearby: Heading south along the coast from Berwick-upon-Tweed you reach the spookily atmospheric Holy Island (a religious centre since the 7th century), Bamburgh with its beach and imposing castle, and then the village of Seahouses where you can take a boat trip to the Farne Islands with their colonies of seals and seabirds. Also to the south, but inland, there is more evidence of old power struggles at the ruins of Norham and Etal castles.
Tourist information: Tourist Information Centre, 106 Marygate, TD15 1DT (01289 330 733/www.berwick-upon-tweed.gov.uk/guide)
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