London

And, like any business, he needs regular customers. Most major pool clubs will have 40 or 50 players willing to gamble £10-30 a match; this can equate to a few thousand a month – far more than the professional tour would bring. A few days after I meet Wagner, he will be involved in a money match for £7,000; he’s optimistic, but is taking nothing for granted, practising four-and-a-half hours a day. Most of all, it’s a pride thing: ‘All the money you’ve won won’t bother you as much as the money you’ve lost.’

Feature continues

Wagner’s unshakeable self-confidence makes him prone to portentous pronouncements (‘I’m not just different, I’ve always wanted to be’), and he certainly isn’t averse to a spot of self-mythologising: his assertion that he’s ‘the last white hustler’ meets with a few wry chuckles from some of JFK’s other players. Most emblematic of the man, however, is his logbook. Wagner describes it as his most valuable possession, and I can see why: reading it is like staring into his soul. It’s a record of every tournament, every money match, every perfect break of his competitive career. He uses it to ensure that his income continues to increase, year upon year – the moment it falls, he says he’ll stop. But it’s so much more: painstaking calligraphy and hand-etched borders depict Greek myths or hieroglyphics on every page – one way to while away the daylight hours. Every town he’s played in is marked off on hand-drawn maps of South Africa and the UK. Photos of his greatest moments also decorate the book, taken by a friend whose shakes from heavy smoking means only the occasional snap comes out. Wagner ensures that the same won’t happen tonight, advising our photographer exactly how to get the best shot.

In fact, he’s always in control around the table. His favourite snooker player is Peter Ebdon, and Wagner is equally methodical and unshowy. Only the glint in his eye betrays his love for the game. Breen notes that Wagner ‘doesn’t look as good as he actually is’. He’s right. It doesn’t take me long to make an impression against Wagner in the evening’s tournament, as I foul spectacularly with my second shot. From then on, my opponent is playing so far within himself he’s virtually inside out and I’m soon 4-0 down in a best-of-nine game. Wagner then clocks up the 605th perfect break of his competitive career to win the tie, securing me a prized entry in his book of armaments. I’m officially a scalp, although I do my best to seem unimpressed. I bet he wouldn’t have a clue how to spruce up a bowl of lettuce.

JFK’s Pool Hall, 188 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 (020 7277 7733). ‘Pocket Money’, a DVD of the 2006 JFK Masters, will be released this month.

How to hustle

Etienne Wagner’s top five tips

1. The first game of your hustling career is critical – win, but not too easily, or word will get around. A 7-6 win will be worth much more than a 7-0 thrashing in the long term.

2. Read the room carefully. Some will rise to bragging, others to a softly-softly approach; some will keep putting money down, others will only stay in the game if they win a decent share of the frames.

3. Don’t be flamboyant. If you try and be flashy, you’ll eventually come unstuck.

4. Don’t play appallingly on purpose. Sprinkle in poor positional shots rather than big fouls – people aren’t stupid.

5. Always keep it friendly, even if you think you’ve been cheated. Self-control is key.