London

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5

Day 1
Queen, grande dame, godmother… whatever you want to call her, Vivienne Westwood is back. Add to that a clutch of heritage London labels (Ossie Clark and Jaeger joining Biba for catwalk comebacks), a healthy smattering of fresh talents and the new generation of power players such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, Marios Schwab and Louise Goldin (to name just a few) and London Fashion Week really is something to be proud of again. And what a difference it has made to the mood, as it kicked off today in jubilant spirits with more international press and buyers – including the vital new Asian and Russian markets. So, what were the new gems unearthed today?

Shows of the day
Biba
Location: Claridges ballroom, W1.
Audience: Smart, low-key, subdued. Lots of Christian Louboutin shoes and cream fitted jackets going around.
What: Designed by a team of fashion graduates, this classic London label, originally established in 1964 by Barbara Hulinicki, finally got its groove back with dozens of wearable, highly luxurious and well-made pieces. We especially loved the cute bubble skirts in bouncy silks, laser-cute organza frocks and the fetching grey blouson jacket with a chic leather bow-belt.
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Modernist kicked off the week with a 'quietly powerful' collection

Modernist
Location: Music Rooms, South Molton Lane, W1
Audience: Edgy, on-trend and raring to go. More than one Noel Fielding-style hair-do spotted.
What: This season, the collection designed by the charming duo Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones was inspired by dark themes including Anthony Schaeffer’s ‘The Wicker Man’, tribal Africa and the occult. Luckily the clothes weren’t too morbid: beautifully crafted basket-woven jackets and fitted skirts, a sheer dress with heavy woollen pockets and a sculpted coat made from neoprene with detachable fur sleeves. Subtle, stylish and quietly powerful.

Top of the flops
We love Topshop but somehow have never been so keen on its more directional Unique range. While we were most grateful for the delicious mini Sunday lunches, apple crumbles and various flutes of champagne, we were less impressed with the cumbersome, drab-coloured offerings on the catwalk which included a black leather trouser suit (urgh!), some Del Boy-esque oversized sheepskin jackets and billowing chiffon dresses that looked like they’d stepped off the prairie. Alright, we kinda did like the bleached denim stovepipe jeans though.

Trends so far…
Cape coats – ‘Is it a cape, is it a coat?’ was the most pressing question on so many front-rowers' lips today. These elegant 1960s-style hybrids – many with neat leather belts woven through the waist – cropped up at Biba, Topshop and Jaeger.

Platforms continue to dominate the catwalks

Platforms – Still the big shape in footwear. This time around they are less chunky with vertiginous cone-shaped heels and more elegant toes.

Sexy tweed – Seriously. We predict racy new interpretations of this fabric are going to be big news this autumn after seeing sparkly tweeds across the catwalks.

Vampy lips – Dark lippy made bold make-up statements at Modernist and Jaeger. We expect to see more this week.

Spotted
Petit-looking sunglasses-wearing Kelly Osbourne and Pixie Geldof. We hate to admit it but the girls looked good.

Patsy Kensit in the front row at Biba – she zipped off in a Mini Cooper when the show finished, no doubt to get back to Emmerdale.

Hissy-fit of the day!
The Telegraph’s fashion editor Hilary Alexander hurling expletives at her bedraggled-looking photographer outside Claridges as he took too long to get in the car waiting to whisk her off to the next show. We were terrified.

Fashion snappers eagerly await next season's styles

Model of the day
The stunning flame-haired belle Premier’s Alice Gibb who epitomised grace and glamour as she opened the Biba show. We caught up with her back stage after Jaeger where a very handsome bloke from the Sam McKnight hair team was taking her extensions out. Who is he?

Soundtrack of the day
OK so the clothes weren’t all that sexy but we did enjoy the soundtrack to the Topshop Unique show which included Man Like Me’s ‘Oh My Gosh’. Check it out at www.myspace.com/manlikeme. There’s something strangely catchy about this track.

Stuff you can buy now…
A quick scan of the stands today revealed a couple of fun new labels worth checking out. www.greenknickers.org specialise in Fairtrade organic underwear with a cheeky twist – we love the knickers which highlight global warming. Slip on a pair featuring a cute leaf motif and your body heat will make the leaves fall off. Cute.

The Modernist autumn/winter collection

Also spotted was elegant silver- and gold-plated jewellery label Bark (www.barkjewels.com) which use delicate filigree-effect on its super-feminine bangles, rings and pendants. We were happy to hear that Marks and Spencer has teamed up with Oxfam in an aim to up its green credentials. The M&S and Oxfam Clothes Exchange will give customers a £5 voucher for every item of old, unwanted M&S clothing they bring back. Valid for one month, the voucher can be used on clothing, homeware and beauty (www.marksandspencer.com). Available in most stores.