London

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5

Day 2
Dan Jones reports on the second day of London Fashion Week which saw Eley Kishimoto let bunnies loose on the catwalk, Emma Cook’s peppermint green Dolly Parton, futuristic Eskimos from Louise Goldin and PPQ’s giant lumpy cardy. After a wobbly start, who shone out from the sea of puffball dresses and tie dye? Meanwhile Maggie Davis profiles designer Marios Schwab.

Shows of the day
PPQ
High hopes for the latest offering from LFW perennials Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker were a little dashed by a confusing, hit-and-miss collection. Referencing the tenth anniversary of the 'Freedom to Party' Party – a political movement opposing government anti-rave legislation – the collection promised 'rich colours' and 'a sense of affluence'. Instead, the puffball party dresses flitted from vibrant to garish, some hidden under a shapeless, lumpy giant cardie. Still, we enjoyed a reccurring tie-dye print and some killer accessories: giant puffball bracelets in gold filigree and studded with Swarovski crystals and PPQ's excellent bags – a black patent backpack and a boxy-looking holdall in a brilliant gold metallic leather.

Feature continues

Last-minute tweaks

Eley Kishimoto
The concept was British country living in a 'comical, cartoon world,' but the odd splash of tweed was all that really nodded to this theme. Instead, white-gloved Mary Quant girls with doorstop bangs took to the catwalk to the sounds of Telstar. It hardly mattered however – this was classic Eley Kishimoto: well-metered cuteness in simple, sharply-cut shapes and just enough quirks to excite. It was Wakako Kishimoto's prints we were really looking out for – we loved the 'Bonnie Bunny', a freehand harlequin, a strong feather print and a frisky little horse which popped up on oversized bow-ties.

Emma Cook
Cook's had a natural break from the LFW schedule these past two seasons (although she's had time to whip up a maternity line for Topshop), and it's great to have her back. No one else, it seems, can use embellishment and embroidery to such a unique and wearable effect. Her ‘Lonesome Suzie’ collection was packed full of clever effects, from the tie-dye print leggings (in a shockingly clear, wet-look plastic), to the over-embroidered fishnets with stars, to geometric star-web prints and one seriously fringed cowgirl dress in peppermint leather. Fabrics included Barbour-like wax cotton and military green wool, and we also loved a giant bobble-knit cape in navy, Cook's curling, floppy hems and a cute cube handbag. Set to the tones of Dolly Parton singing 'Stairway to Heaven', it seems Emma Cook has a sense of humour, too.

Louise Goldin's autumn/winter collection

Louise Goldin
How the hell do you make felt sexy? Knitwear designer Louise Goldin didn't make it easy for herself basing her collection on her future imaginings of Eskimo culture – not a race known for its libidinous ways. Who wants to be panting and heaving in a cut-away panelled wool body suit? Still, Louise Goldin added enough requisite sparkle (courtesy of cashmere body armour shot with black crystals) to make her vision work. Quilting and padding cashmere into shapes and cuts that were dangerously unique, Goldin pulled it off. We loved the oversized fur-trim Inuit hood and the panelled grey felt dress – which looked a little too close to the Transformers symbol not to mention. We doubt Goldin will win the hearts of women who like a nice party frock and a power handbag, but she's certainly an interesting designer with something to say.

Felder Felder
Slouchy black slash-neck knits over purple cocktail dresses hung with ruffles, fluid black leather studded with gold and a huge angora Muscovite hat tipped so low we thought the poor model might trip and fall.

Trends
Tie Dye, the next generation: PPQ had it in reams, printed onto fine gauge sheer fabrics and Emma Cook printed it on to synthetic leggings – perhaps in honour of Camden?

Sexy shoes stunned on the catwalk

Vivienne Westwood handbags: we spotted a few fashion eds swinging vintage Westwood bags – perhaps in honour of the grande dame herself?

Barbour jackets: Time Out reported this trend a few weeks ago and green waxed Barbour jackets were everywhere (www.barbour.com).

Spotted!
Sophie Ellis Bextor front row at PPQ with a loveheart tattoo that read ‘family’… Will Young chatting with friends at Louise Goldin. Hilary Alexander hobbling down the runway, ordering her photographer to snap a very demure Diane Pernet (whose cult fashion blog is well worth a peek: www.ashadedviewonfashion.com).

Overheard!
Photographers in the British Fashion Council tent getting ready to pap Lily Allen who was outside, smoking with friends: ‘She looks a bit moody’, said one, getting ready to leap out and ambush her, ‘let her finish her fag then!’ worried another. She didn’t look too grumpy to us.

A snapshot of the day's models

Scandal!
Following yesterday's relaunch, the family of Ossie Clarke are considering legal action against the label. Apparently, the trademark 'Ossie Clarke' was registered in 1999 by Alfred Radley who had been involved with the label since the early '60s. It was licensed again in 2007 to the team responsible for its current incarnation, although it is said Ossie's sons were only recently informed of this and only found out about yesterday's show through a third party. We'll let you know how this develops later this week.

Up and Coming
While a couple of portly photographers were papping Lily Allen and Sophie Ellis Bextor within an inch of their lives, a new popstar slipped around today's shows almost unnoticed. We bumped into Victoria (aka Little Boots) whose soon-to-be-released first single, 'Stuck on Repeat', is produced by fashion band of the moment Hot Chip. Check it out at www.myspace.com/littlebootsmusic

Marios Schwab

Designer Profile: Marios Schwab
After studying fashion in Berlin, Marios Schwab, now 30, embarked on the MA in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins. Two years after graduating in 2003, he launched his own collection and his designs became an instant hit with fashion insiders due to his precise cutting skills and inventive shapes. Worn by Kate Moss and Thandie Newton, Schwab’s clothes have also appeared regularly in Vogue, i-D and Dazed & Confused. Marios Schwab is sold at Browns, Dover Street Market and Harvey Nichols.

What's your key look in the new (a/w 2008/09) collection?
'The print is a very important part of the show.'

Sprit of the new collection?
'Sexy and intellectual at the same time.'

London Fashion Week loves?
'The creativity.'

And loathes?
'The traffic.'

Which collections at LFW will you be checking out?
'Sadly I probably won’t have time to see anything apart from my own show from backstage. If I did, I’d like to check out Ann-Sofie Back’s show.'

Style tip?
'Always wear a great shoe.'

Which accessory can you currently not live without?
'A needle and thread!'

How does London inspire you?
'I love London for its versatility, randomness and contrasts; I can be inspired by architecture, somebody I meet or a book I come across.'