Gay & Lesbian

‘Is it a bird? Is it a GEEZER?’ A cockney stallholder looks confused. ‘I’m a lady. Of course!’ squeals Ryan Styles, ‘her’ thigh-length white boots, frou-frou pink frock and lipstick-shaped bag unmissable in the Friday lunchtime crowd at Ridley Road market. The crowds gather with looks of bemusement, horror, joy .

‘Oooooooh, let’s get some strawberries,’ cries Jonny Woo, eyeing up a tasty fruitseller. Currently the queen of the queens and equally resplendent in spiky heels, a puffball skirt, corset and full face of rainbow-coloured make-up, Woo is now such a style icon that she features both in this month’s i-D and alongside Kate Moss in Pop.

‘We’re going to Party Party!’ he announces and leads Styles, myself and fellow drag queen Xtina Draguilera off through a market full of people taking pictures on their mobile phones, to the area’s leading fancy-dress emporium. There are many things that drag queens are good at: bitching, miming to Gloria Gaynor and making strangers/taxi drivers/market traders stop in their tracks, for example. But shopping is definitely top of the list. The term ‘drag’ , after all, originates from the Polari [gay slang] for ‘clothes’, and ‘queen’ reflects their supremacy. They’ve agreed to let me tag along on a girlie shopping trip where I hope to discover some new consumer paradises and share their style secrets.

Unlike regular shoppers who browse through rails without finding anything they like, these girls know exactly where to go and what they are looking for. They also, I discover, have a refreshingly celebratory approach to buying things.

Inside Party Party, the biggest and best fancy dress and party shop I’ve ever visited, I’m in raptures. There is even an entire floor devoted to cake-making, with a corner for a balloon-sculpting class. ‘It’s just brilliant for stuff: wigs, gorilla outfits, hats, masks… you name it. Ooooh, I might just have to buy this fat suit!’ yells Woo, almost overcome with excitement.

Next stop is Cheshire Street’s brilliant second-hand emporium Beyond Retro, where the wasp-waisted Xtina Draguilera (real name Russell Graham) used to work. ‘Helllllllo, darrrrrrrrrrrrling,’ she purrs to the skinny bloke with long hair and a tank-top behind the counter. ‘We’re going to try some clothes on!’ In a whirl of 1950s prom-skirts, foxy 1980s cocktail dresses and little 1940s metallics bags, my companions set about changing outfits and transforming their look.

‘Oooh, that’s better,’ says Styles, the most effeminate and youngest of the three. ‘This is my prim day look. I feel like Charlotte from “Sex and the City” now.’

Xtina ‘I’ve got the waist measurements of a supermodel’ Draguilera goes for the Alexis Carrington 1980s look with a slutty black frock and spiky red patent stilettos, while Woo has opted for a more suburban 1970s Margot Ledbetter red day dress.

When we leave, the entire population of the school across the road (teachers included) are pressed against the playground fence screaming, laughing and waving at the trio. ‘Hello Mr Clown!’ shouts a little Bangladeshi boy. The girls wave back, in the style of the Queen.

After a parade down Brick Lane and a quick alfresco lunch at the Truman Brewery (during which everyone in E1, including actress Sam Morton, greets Jonny like a best mate), we head into town to theatre shop Charles Fox, a favourite of drag queens. ‘This place is just the best
for make-up and wigs,’ says Woo, introducing me to rows and rows of colour palettes, realistic-looking wigs, and more varieties of false eyelashes and make-up brushes than I ever suspected existed. New wigs and make-up – another new look for the ladies.

At the end of a crazy day, I’m exhausted but inspired. Wearing a long heavy-fringed red wig and having found the best mascara and foundation sponges in existence, I realise this has been one of the best shopping sprees ever. It’s astounding how much you can learn about shopping from a man wearing a frock.

Jonny Woo

Jonny Woo, 33
Background
Born in London. Grew up in Medway. Lost it in Birmingham. Found it in NYC. Back in London.
What are you working on?
‘Stark Dallas Naked’, a new season of shows at Bistrotheque, and a new soap called ‘Campo Cruza’. I’m also at Bistrotheque taking part in Tranny Talent on Wednesdays and a new Friday performance party at AREA, Vauxhall, called ‘SHOW OFF’ and major Christmas show ‘The Wizard of Oz’, plus ‘ Where Are They Now?’ at The Reindeer. And ‘Gay Bingo’ at Tea in Shoreditch, which goes from strength to strength.

How did you get into drag?
In New York, all my friends were drag queens so I ran around to clubs and places in all sorts of outfits.
Tell us about the London scene I’ve seen loads of (club) kids getting into the high heels. There’s a very relaxed attitude towards putting a frock on these days. I think drag has become a lot more joyous in the past few years.
Who is your style idol?
Sue-Ellen from ‘Dallas’, Bucks Fizz’s Jay Aston or Angela Lansbury.
How do you dress when you’re not in costume?
Jeans covered in smeared make-up, T-shirt, trainers, and unshaven. Actually scrub that out: put Louis Vuitton!
Most outrageous look?
Naked with high heels and a black face.
Drag heroines?
Lavinia Co-op from the Bloolips, Kiki (and Herb) and all my contemporaries on the alternative drag circuit.
Style mantra
Get into your look. You chose it, now make it work for YOU! Girls shouldn’t wear the same cheap PVC shoes as us, though; they will look like hookers. But do wear more wigs and make-up!
Eternal beauty tip
Posture gives you impact and, in drag or in life, one should always aim for impact.

Xtina Draguilera

Xtina Draguilera, 25
Background
Born in Glasgow and brought up in a little village in Yorkshire and trained as a ballerina at the Northern School of Contemporary Dancein Leeds. I was there for three years but got thrown out for being naughty.
What are you working on?
I’m trying to develop a show about Princess Diana which I tried out at the Bethnal Green Working Men’s club. I’m doing a little number at Tranny Lip Synching, every Saturday at Bistroteque, mainly lip-synching Christina Aguilera.
How did you get into drag?
I used to idolise Catwoman and my sister was a big influence on me, so I dressed up in her clothes when I was little. About a year ago I was pretty broke so I entered a lip-synching competition and won £500 – which I paid my rent with – then I was asked to do a show at Coco de Mer.
Tell us about the London scene
There’s a lot more competition these days. There’s been a lot of club wear but now people are dressing up a bit more. There’s this whole Shoreditch scene, which started at ‘Family’ at Bar Music Hall on Curtain Road before it shut down and is now centred around ‘Boombox’ at Hoxton Bar & Grill on a Sunday night. A lot of people have got into it through the Tranny Talent parties and Gay Bingo at the Tea Building and Trannyshack at Too2Much, where you get people who spend their lives as transvestites, a lot of transsexuals, and a lot of straight men who are married and stuff, what we call ‘tranny chasers’. I think the word ‘transvesite’ has been readopted by the scene. It’s much more celebratory.
Who is your style idol?
Christina Aguilera, but not when she was in ‘Genie in a Bottle’.
How do you dress when you’re not in costume?
I like American Apparel. Simple little T-shirts and some nice jeans – H&M, Levis.
Most outrageous look?
Princess Diana covered in blood wearing a long wedding dress.
Drag heroines?
Jonny Woo is my idol because he’s not afraid to make a fool of himself.
Style mantra
It’s not what you wear but the attitude you wear it with.
Eternal beauty tip
If you want to make a real statement with your lips, wear red Rimmel lipstick and then apply some glitter on top. It's my signature look.

Ryan Styles

Ryan Styles, 24
Background
I was brought up in a small village in the Midlands where I have lots of memories of fishing with my grandad. I stayed in that village until I was 18 when I was driven out!
Training?
A degree in jewellery design from Middlesex University. I also studied performing arts and costume design in Lisbon.
What are you working on?
‘The Private Lives of Ryan Styles’, my first solo show, which will be at Too2Much on Wednesday September 27 as part of the club night called Trannyshack. The show will feature lip-synchs, mime and illusions. I’m also working on ‘Triptych’, an evening featuring live art and musical scores. This show sees me tap-dancing on golden eggshells before I ultimately reach death from exhaustion.

How did you get into drag?
I remember the first time I wore one of my mum’s skirts – I was pretending to be the guardian angel from ‘Pinocchio’, and I was only six. I joined a band when I was a teenager and we used to wear a lot of make-up, I would get mistaken for being a girl all the time, but I secretly liked the attention from the boys. About three years ago, I started experimenting with my image again. I have worked on the doors of nightclubs and hosted parties, which led to performing.
Tell us about the London scene
Since the millennium, people have begun to dress up again; there was a point when you felt like a clown in a club but most
people I know wear wigs and a bit of make-up these days. We have even had two drag balls this year which shows the scene is thriving with creative individuals experimenting and entertaining.
Who is your style idol?
Frida Kahlo. I envy her brows.
How do you dress when you’re not in costume?
I have always been on the Quentin Crisp side of life; clothes are very important to me. I try to avoid mass-produced and marketed clothing, preferring individual or one-off pieces – I sometimes wear biblical priest gowns for breakfast.
Most outrageous look
I used to shave my entire head and make a massive mohawk out of peacock feathers. It was very dramatic.
Drag heroines
Justin Bond, Sheila Tequila, Tasty Tim and my fellow sisters Jonny and Xtina.
Style mantra
I don't think I have one. Though all my looks are always of the highest finish.
Eternal beauty tip
Forget that saying about it being found on the inside, always moisturise after you’ve shaved. And always carry some Copydex – its perfect for sticking on hair and eyelashes.

Jonny Woo goes all suburban

Our drag queens’ favourite shops

Agent Provocateur
Decadent sauciness without descending into sleaze. The distinctive retro-glamour of the shops’ pink and black decor is extended to the staff, who are kitted out in cleavage-enhancing pink nurses’ uniforms with lacy black bras peeping out provocatively. ‘It’s where I get all my tights and stockings,’ says Draguilera.
Agent Provocateur, 6 Broadwick St, W1 (020 7439 0229/www.agentprovocateur.com) Oxford Circus tube. Open Mon-Wed, Sat 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri till 8pm.

Battersea Car Boot sale
Every Sunday afternoon. Good for random trimmings and one-of-a-kind accessories.
Battersea Car Boot Sale, Battersea Park Rd (entrance Dagnall St) SW11.Queenstown Rd/Battersea rail. Sundays 1.30-5pm

Beyond Retro
A TO favourite selling a huge selection of retro gear, from the ’50s to ’80s, on a Brick Lane side street, it’s a great one-stop shop for fashion-conscious retro clothing at palatable prices. The vast, yellow-walled warehouse space has rails and rails of vintage wardrobe staples, including denim, tutus and leather jackets. ‘We all go here for fabulous frocks and shoes,’ says Woo.
Beyond Retro, 112 Cheshire St, E2 (020 7613 3636/www.beyondretro.com). Liverpool St tube/rail. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 11am-7pm.

Charles H Fox
This Covent Garden institution, established over 120 years ago, caters for the theatre industry, selling the best quality make-up and wigs. ‘For all our make-up supplies,’ says Woo.
Charles H Fox Ltd, 22 Tavistock St, WC2 (020 7240 3111/www.charlesfox.co.uk). Covent Garden tube. Open Mon-Wed 9.30am-5.45pm, Thur-Fri 9.30am-6.45pm, Sat 10am-5.45pm.

Expectations
‘Great for dirty fetish wear,’ says Woo. With its neon sign and thumping music, there's a clubby vibe to Expectations – a glance around at the Tom of Finland imagery, and you're in no doubt what kind of a club. Get kitted out with latex briefs from just £13.99 or a pair of leather rear-zip jeans at £169, or stock up on hardware from the range of restraints, harnesses and slings. There’s also a particularly wide range of hoods and masks.
Expectations, 75 Great Eastern St, EC2 (020 7739 0292/ www.expectations.co.uk) Leicester Square/Tottenham Court Rd tube. Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-8pm, Sun noon-5pm.

Ryan Styles covers all the drag essentials

Paradiso
More glamorous than your average Soho fetish bunker, Paradiso Bodyworks operates out of two adjacent shops. Enter via Old Compton Street for leather, rubber and PVC fetish fashion and footwear, plus a lovely line in leather collars, leads and masks, including a sheepskin-lined blindfold at (£75). As the window display suggests, next door on Dean Street the focus is on boudoir chic, with girlie silk, satin and lace lingerie, vintage-look corsets and sequin nipple tassels (from £35). ‘Compton Street for the best shoes,’ says Woo.
Paradiso, 41 Old Compton St, W1 (020 7287 2487). Leicester Square tube. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7.30pm.

Party Party
Three-floor party shop with everything you need for fancy dress, plus a floor devoted to cake decorating. ‘This is great,’ says Woo. ‘I buy all my balloons here as well as fake blood, glitter, confetti, and coloured hairspray,’ adds Styles.
Party Party, 9-13 Ridley Rd , E8 (020 7254 5168) Dalston Kingsland rail. Open Mon-Thur 9am-5.30pm, Fri, Sat 9am-6.30pm.

Peacocks
Woo recommends this department store ‘for hosiery and saucy little undies’.
Peacocks, 51-57 Kingsland High St, E8 (020 7923 4363) Dalston Kingsland rail. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 10am-5pm.

Pound shops in Hackney
‘You can pick up anything in these places, which can be transformed with an inventive mind,’ says Styles. ‘I turned three mops into a fab wig, you'd never guess!’

Ridley Road market, Dalston
‘Where else can you buy lace knickers for 50p?’ asks Styles.
Ridley Road Market, Ridley Rd, E8. Dalston Kingsland rail. Market on Mon-Wed 9am-3pm, Thur 9am-12noon; Fri, Sat 9am-5pm

Salvation Army, Hackney
‘Everything in here is 50p-£1. And they have a jumble sale every so often. It is very Sue Pollard but worth the rummage if you like little ’80s bat-winged jumpers. I’m not a cheap queen!’ says Styles.
Salvation Army, Local Community Centre Clapton, 122 Lower Clapton Rd E5 (020 8985 3902). Hackney Downs rail. Open Mon and Fri 10am-3pm, Tues-Thurs 9am-3pm.

Show Girls
‘The place to come for pole-dancing boots,’ says Woo. Latex couture is the order of the day at this small but stylish fetish boutique featuring pieces by Ectomorph, Murray & Vern and Inner Sanctum. Start with a £15 thong or splash out on a slinky Vampirella dress at £230 -–opt for a failsafe black or go superhero in red and gold
Show Girls, 64 Holloway Road N7 (020 7697 9072/www.showgirls.uk.com). Holloway Road tube. Open Mon-Thurs10.30am-6.30pm, Fri-Sat 10.30am-7pm.

Tatty Devine
Kitsch accessories with a quintessentially London flavour. ‘Where else does a drag queen buy her jewellery? Affordable, fabulous designs and a beautiful shop,’ says Styles. Increasingly known for ther laser-cut perspex necklaces (you can order one with your own name on for £25), Rosie Wolfenden and Hariett Vine have many other, largely kitsch, strings to their bow, like plectrum charm bracelets (£21) and earings in the form of tiny records
Tatty Devine, 57b Brewer St, W1 (020 7739 9009/www.tattydevine.com). Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm.