Now under the care of Real Pubs, this elegant Edwardian building may smack of formulaic thinking, but so what? It suits most occasions with its generous drinking and dining terrace, spacious front bar and separate rear restaurant. Ale enthusiasts will appreciate beers such as Truman’s Swallow & Swift and Ruddles Best, while wine buffs will be equally pleased with their options.
The menu is flexibility itself: Venetian-style bar snacks that double as starters; generous plates of pasta that suit lunch or dinner; high-end mains alongside gastropub staples. Mostly we’ve found the cooking impressive, especially the Sunday roasts, but on our last visit we ordered a clutch of favourites from the all-day cicchetti list to find them not only less good than before but entirely different recipes. A blip? We hope so.
Service is cheery and highly competent. Weekends can be overrun with families, but the tone is friendly; dim lighting helps make quiet weeknights in the bar cosy. Spells of hot weather are when this place really takes off – the numerous outdoor tables are a key draw.