Streets of London: Leytonstone High Road, E11
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By Andrew Shields. Photography Haris Artemis
Posted: Tue Jan 2 2007 -
Shabby chic and the Olympic effect are just two reasons to invest in Leytonstone, a lively and affordable pocket of east London
Leytonstone High Road: straight outta Cape Town, these days Jump off the tube at Leytonstone and in the two minutes it takes to walk to the High Road, the voices you’ll hear are as likely to be South African as East End or Asian. Over the past five years, an estimated 30,000 Saffies have descended on this multicultural, lower-middle-class area and neighbouring Leyton, one stop back down the Central Line.
They’re not backpackers – most are here for at least three years to work in construction, some as teachers and a few in the City. As a result, they’ve got their own shop, Hunter’s Deli (No 690b, 020 8988 0530); their own touch-rugby league; and, most prominent of all, their own bar and social centre, Zulus (No 640, 020 8558 9116/www.zulus.co.uk). Not all residents are delighted at the green-shirted
invasion that takes place most weekends for club nights and live music, but there’s no doubting the splash of colour and vibrancy they’ve added to an otherwise drab thoroughfare. Feature continuesAdvertisementLeytonstone High Road was once a permanently clogged conduit for Essex commuters into central London. However, the A12 extension has taken most through traffic away from the town centre and regeneration is well under way – spearheaded, after years of inertia, by Waltham Forest council leader Clyde Loakes, who lives nearby and takes a refreshingly personal interest in what’s going on. This is particularly noticeable in the low-rise blocks of purpose-built flats springing up along the High Road and Kirkdale Road. One-bedroom properties cost around £150,000-£195,000, two-bedroom ones from £175,000-£235,000. A two-bedroom rental in the attractive new Zodiac development close to the tube and bus station is £230-£250 per week.
Guarded by the intriguing sculpture on Grove Road, depicting the green man of ancient folklore, and a deliberately impenetrable one-way system, and flanked by forest and the playing fields of Wanstead Flats, the Bushwood estate of three- and four-bedroom Victorian terraced houses (£295,000-£425,000) with a few conversions (two bedrooms around £220,000-£270,000) is the most desirable neighbourhood off the High Road. It has its own pub, the cosy North Star (24 Browning Rd, 020 8989 5777), which is a short stagger from the excellent Sheepwalk (No 692, 020 8556 1131). Here, the What’s Cookin’ bluegrass, country, rock ’n’ roll and jazz club is a popular upstairs attraction drawing plenty of well-known acts.
Thirty years ago, Leytonstone was one of east London’s premier shopping centres. However, the traffic jams gradually sent people to the malls at Ilford and Romford, while many of the remaining independent stores were killed off when a huge Tesco opened near the Green Man Roundabout at the top end of the High Road. As a result, the centre is now dominated by bottom-end (but busy) chains such as Primark and Matalan, and dreary stalwarts like Woolworths and Boots.- Add your comment to this feature
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13 comments
Dear Hoxton,
You of course are allowed your opinion and I would respect it more if I could find more chicken places than restaurants in Leytonstone. As it is, I don't so your point is not based on evidence and therefore ignorant. But that's ok. Everyone can have an opinion even if not based on fact. Btw I am old enough to make my own informed decisions about where to live, and I deliberately prefer and chose to live where men spend less time grooming than ladies! Enjoy Hoxton...some people prefer it.
My boyfriend and me have moved into Bushwood one year and half ago and we didn't have any problems so far. Amazing transport links (25 mins to Soho), Epping forest around the corner, Red Lion gastro pub for a good beer and a nice Sunday roast two mins away... Moreover, BARA residents association has been very helpful finding builders, cat-sitters, sharing infos regarding the area..... I would recommend Upper Leytonstone and Bushwood area to every young family.
To Hoxton,
Fried chicken is very tasty, especially good value when it comes in a bargain bucket. Also very nutritious when eaten with a beetroot salad sprinkled with alpha beans.However, at least I'm not a Hoxton luddite with my shaved sides and floppy top, cycling on my fixed speed courier bike in my skinny carrot jeans....I'm a Leytonite living in a mansion with cheap bills and an easy commute with no pretence to live up to. So what if I like a bit of fried chicken!
Nilufa Ali, Leytonstone is only good if you're a fan of fried chicken.
Just to add that Foxtons have moved into the area and are already exploiting property prices prior to the Olympics, indicating the start of property price increase. However, this may be a 'fake' blip in prices all going up as part of the Olympic hysteria, I foresee prices dropping shortly afterwards. But, being a Leytonstone resident myself, I reckon 2013 is when you will really see this place take off. Regeneration is already very evident, and I think it's a great place to live in and commute. It's got one of the best Thai restaurants, tapas place and a good indian linked the Rasa chain. Leytonstone is the way forward...
We bought our first property - a two bed flat in leytonstone a year ago and we really like the area. I work in Central London and like to return to Leytonstone where it's quieter and get away from the hustle and bustle. I feel very safe walking around the streets and there are great restaurants. The Red Lion has just opened which I believe will transform the area as it's been refurbished to a great standard and is about to serve amazing high quality food. I would definitely recommend Leytonstone as a place to live. Plus for the price, you can buy an amazing looking flat/house compared to a small pokey drab-looking one bed flat in central london.
Dear Kris,
With due respect, it is never the place but the way you interact in it. Did you get out of your flat to make friends?
I know Leytonstone very very well as well as Leyton. I bike around the whole area to do my bits of shopping and see my friends and go to the gym.
Boring- a place is what you make it, and if you ventured out to the nights out you may surprise yourself
Dirty- we are in London Kris! Where is it NOT dirty?
Dangerous- as a young woman I have walked home from both tube stations and have never felt unsafe. I have never been mugged, raped or pillaged! I have left my bike unlocked on several occassions and it has never been stolen. Once a friend of mine left his bike outside my house for four hours forgetting to lock it, and surprise surprise, it was still there.
Yes Kris, if one could afford housing we would all be living in Hampstead or Highgate I suppose. But for now, I couldn't wish for me. And if it's boring, go venture to central London, Shoreditch, Hackney etc for nights out and venture back home to a peaceful surburban retreat.
And yes, I do live in leafy Upper Leytonstone, it is the nicest part.
It's all about the leafy Upper Leytonstone, isn't it?
You have no idea about the rest...
Absolutely boring, dirty, dangerous place to live.
Having lived for six years in London in various places from Finsbury Park, Golders Green, Hampstead Garden Suburbs and Walthamstow, I think Leytonstone is a gem. It is shabby, it is quiet and small, but that is why I have felt so welcomed here. The community spirit is second to none. Given London can be a difficult place to meet new people and feel at home, Leytonstone has been wonderful for all that. I have been here two months now and already have a lot of new friends. A lot of young professionals move to this area because of its great transportation to the centre of London and affordable housing. I for one am so convinced that I too will be purchasing here and putting down my roots. The localers tend to drink in the hidden away gem known as The North Star where I have never come across such a mixed group of friendly honest people and also The Sheep Walk which is heaving on a Friday and Saturday night due to its big dance floor and live music.
I am very happy here and pleased to call Leytonstone my home.
Great to hear about my old home back in UK miss it in so many ways and yes the community spirit was always good in Leytonstone wish all the best for its future a well deserved piece too many people run it down yet this could be the last place the east end will have for that cosy feeling of living in close proximity to the big city area Thanks for a good read
I just need to mention that The Eastside Jazz Club at tThe Lord Rookwood Pub, Cann Hall Rd. (020 8989 8129) has a range of live jazz on offer most Tuesday nights, Also, The Heathcote Arms (020 8988 0011) has a Blues jam every Wednesday. I'm glad The Luna Lounge was mentioned as Suja, the guuy that runs it, is promoting a wide range of live music including jazz on a Saturday and Sunday and one can order food from The Eatery Restaurant and enjoy that and drinks from the bar whilst listening to the music. All the venues mentioned are friendly and welcoming and I do agree that Leytonstone has a lot to offer.
A pretty fair report. The Bushwood area (which is the bit between between Bushwood itself and the High Road on the map above) is indeed a hidden gem, with large houses looking across forest land. Since the report was written, there are now more coffee shops - the Parisien and Mezze in Church Lane spring to mind - and the report leaves out various other excellent restaurants including The Star of India in the High Road, which has been voted the best restaurant in Waltham Forest by readers of the Waltham Forest Guardian & Independent for quite a few years now. It's got a great vegetarian menu as well as the more usual meat and fish based dishes. Add to that the newly established Leytonstone Film Club, which shows primarily art house films and the Luna lounge - a jazz bar in Church Lane - and Leytonstone has quite a lot to offer.
Great piece of coverage - so much better than a snotty piece The Guardian Weekend property pages knocked out a few years back running the place down that completely missed the sense of community and history that exists behind all the seeming shabbiness. Nice one.