This Borough Market stalwart, with a wet-fish counter at the front and a long narrow dining space behind, is a lively and convivial spot for some reliable fishy fare. On a Thursday night, the place was humming with regulars, tourists, couples, families, young and old – all squeezed in, sitting at the tightly packed tables or on high stools along the bar watching the cooks at work.
Plain wooden furniture and brick walls (bare or painted white) provide an unassuming backdrop. Staff are no-nonsense yet friendly. Main-course prices are quite high (starting at £14.50 for battered pollock and chips), but portions are generous and the fishmonger side of the business means you’re guaranteed spanking-fresh ingredients. Hake with saffron potatoes, and sea bass with crispy leeks, were textbook examples of succulent, full-flavoured, deftly cooked fish. A starter of piri piri prawns had a proper chilli kick, and courgette fritti were light, crisp and obviously straight from the fryer. Fish soup, lobster risotto, salmon with oriental vegetables: there’s plenty of variety, but nothing for non-pescetarians.
A bottle of Chilean riesling made a fine accompaniment. Only a dull mixed salad disappointed – apart, that is, from the toilet facilities, which are inadequate, rundown and really need sorting out.