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Ming Tang Evans / Time Out
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
This was the first of three accomplished, unfussy and deservedly popular restaurants opened by Anthony Demetre and Will Smith (the others are Mod Euro compatriot Wild Honey, and French brasserie Les Deux Salons).
The site is split into two narrow rooms; one contains a high marble counter with stools, the second tables and a long, sleek black leather banquette. With modern art on white walls and a low ceiling, it’s a cool (and noisy) space, though the masculinity is tempered by beautiful beechwood tables and tactile, Japanese-style crockery.
The menu is seasonal, although certain dishes crop up regularly – such as cod with crisp chicken wings and pink grapefruit, ginger and honey preserve and, for daring diners only perhaps, warm pig’s head.
The ‘working lunch’ menu offers limited choice, but is great value for the quality of the cooking; witness fluffy salt cod brandade with parsley and sea purslane; and sheep’s ricotta gnudi, the cloying creaminess of the cheese cut by a tangy tomato dressing and slivers of preserved lemon. For dessert, milk chocolate fondant was topped with a marvellous stout ice-cream.
Service was solicitous, and every bottle on the carefully selected wine list is available by 250ml carafe, a much-praised move that offers a real chance to experiment.
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