Just a few paces from Ealing Common station, this unassuming restaurant has a strong reputation for high-quality old-school sushi. The functional room is simply furnished with white-tiled floor, small wooden tables and a standard-issue sushi counter along one wall. It’s not much to look at, but it serves the purpose for a decent lunch or dinner. Sourcing the highest quality of fish is not a problem for Atariya as the company is also a fishmonger. This also enables it to offer a wider range than most, with more than 20 nigiri toppings to choose from – including lesser spotted varieties such as turbot fin, razor clam and botan prawn – all of which are handled well. Prices have gone up a little recently, eliciting a few grumbles from regulars, but sashimi and nigiri sets still represent reasonable value at £15-£23. The ‘superior’ selection featured 14 well-shaped nigiri pieces, though the fish slicing was a little uneven. Highlights included fatty tuna as soft as silk, and turbot with just the right level of resistance as you bit into it. Less pleasing was the overpowering ume paste in a plum and shiso maki roll.