Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Mon Oct 15 2012
There’s an industrial feel to this glam shopping-centre restaurant – and we don’t just mean its cavernous proportions and metallic faux-factory decor. You can almost sense the purr of the production line that delivers upmarket grills and US-style barbecue dishes from open kitchens to over 200 diners, via a bevy of perma-perky, black-shirted staff. You can also sense the business plan: draw them in with big names (Jamie Oliver and sidekick Adam Perry Lang own the joint), keep turning the tables, price optimistically (bread £5, Sierra Nevada £7) and upsell repeatedly. In return, punters get fantastic views of St Paul’s, a proper buzz and some damn good meat dishes – ribs more beef than bone; smoky, savoury pulled pork; and steaks cut from Scottish and Irish beef by the in-house butcher (there’s a shop downstairs). Not all dishes were as admirable: a pretty little pink tower of sea bass ceviche lacked flavour; and an otherwise good beetroot salad was overwhelmed by lazily dressed watercress. Of the desserts, only the peanut butter sundae – topped by popcorn and accompanied by a saucer of salt caramel? – delivered a wow factor. On a Saturday night, the largely out-of-town, special-occasion customers were lapping it all up.
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