Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill
Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill
Michelle Grant
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
A deep reverence for heritage, combined with unsurpassed culinary credentials, has meant that chef-patron Richard Corrigan’s 2005 overhaul of this 1916 grand dame has been an indisputable success. The art deco windows, grand wooden panelling, oak flooring and well-turned-out regulars all nod to the Bentley’s of times past, while a reinvigorated menu and spruced-up decor bring the restaurant firmly up to date.
Upstairs is the formal Grill restaurant, but we prefer the more relaxed ground-floor oyster bar. Here, scallop-shaped lamps, framed fish illustrations and the original marble oyster bar lined with red-leather chairs create a buzzing, sophisticated space.
Corrigan’s renowned soda bread (made with black treacle and buttermilk) makes for a delicious start. And while it would be rude not to order oysters (in season and supremely fresh), the menu offers such a tempting range of dishes – from scallop ceviche to classic fish pie – that it’s almost impossible not to over-indulge. Specials of sea bass and caponata, and wild sea trout with samphire and verjus, were two outstanding seafood plates, the expertly balanced flavours and textures indicating world-class talent in the kitchen.
Desserts of chocolate mousse and lemon steamed pudding with crème anglais were sensational, and the wine list doesn’t disappoint. What’s more, the formally dressed staff are fastidious, yet ready for a chat when time allows. Breakfasts are more kindly priced, and the pre-theatre set menus are excellent value too.
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