Once a Jewish neighbourhood, the Petticoat Lane district is now a centre of Tower Hamlets’ Bangladeshi population – but Bevis Marks is a reminder of the old days. Outside, bustling market stalls sell Indian cottons; inside, all is calm. The spacious, light main section has high ceilings, white linen and sparkling glass.
There’s also an attractive bar area serving traditional snacks, burgers and sandwiches. Service is attentive, as befits a restaurant serving high-class modern Jewish cuisine. Start with creamy chopped liver with pear and cranberry chutney; beetroot-cured gravadlax; duck and mushroom terrine; or vegetarian artichoke borekas with chestnut pesto. Main courses are substantial yet stylish. Traditional salt beef is succulent, though comes with overly chunky chips, as does the ribeye. Rosemary-crusted lamb chops (not quite rare enough) had a rich burgundy sauce and sweet-potato mash. Fish options include blackened cod, and maple-glazed salmon. Non-dairy desserts are a speciality.
Plum and almond tart certainly passes muster, and the restaurant still serves its ‘can’t believe it’s not cream’ vanilla ice-cream. With such careful presentation and reliable cooking, this edge-of-City treasure appeals to kosher diners – but with such high prices, can it attract others?