A sunny spring day, and Kingston’s riverside fills up with strollers admiring the swans and the shock of blue skies. But where to eat?
This Young’s pub has just had a refurb, but doesn’t look much different to before – there’s not much can be done about the ugly red-brick building it’s housed in. The outdoor tables have not been changed or spruced up since last season; the varnish on them is flaking.
Despite claims of having gone gastro, the menu is utterly predictable pub fare – pizzas, fish and chips, pies. The beers are fine though – Young’s, of course, plus a guest ale or two.
So why mention the Bishop at all? Because they do one thing very well indeed, which is the burger. We were disappointed by a watery chicken, gammon and mushroom pie, served with mushy mash, but the burger was in a quite different league. The lightly toasted bun was made from chewy, substantial bread; the chips fresh and golden. But most of all, the beef patty was moist and flavoursome, oozing with a layer of mature cheddar. The presentation – on a black slate, with a curly endive leaf salad we left for the seagulls – echoed the design makeover of this slightly confused chain pub. But for under a tenner, this is one of the best burgers in south-west London, and makes it a destination for that alone. Remember to take something for the ducks, too.