Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Rate this
Time Out says
Fri Sep 30 2011
One of the many plus points about BBL is that Bruno Loubet is firmly in the kitchen (easily seen from the dining room). His influence is clear on the menu too, from the aperitif (a Loubet-created infusion of lemon, orange, lavender and rosemary served with vermouth and soda) to the classy reimagining of French staples.
The menu evolves through the year, but some dishes have become regulars, such as the must-try beetroot ravioli, rocket salad, fried breadcrumbs and parmesan, which on this visit was as good as ever. Watercress soup with soft poached egg was a summery success. Next, braised beef indochine, mango and herb salad was fabulous; so succulent it didn’t need a knife, its richness offset by vibrant salad. Pan-fried sea bass with sweet potato gnocchi and chives was beautifully seasoned and cooked with precision.
Desserts tread a similar line between classic and out-there, from apple tart with crème fraîche and cinnamon ice-cream to chilli-poached pineapple with passionfruit jelly and green tea sabayon.
Decor is also a mixture of styles, but pleasantly so, and the large windows mean the room is full of light. Slightly odd service struck an off-note – supercilious and attempting to rush us through the meal, despite there being a few spare tables – but overall the Bistrot can be relied on, whatever the occasion.
Comments & ratings