Bordelaise

Tucked into a corner site in Tooting’s Broadway Market – a rough-around-the-edges indoor market now home to trendy spots like the wonderful Plot – is this little bistro. It’s got all the Parisian character you could wish for, including cute little tables in a sheltered spot ‘outside’ (that is, under the cover of the market, but outside the restaurant itself). And, of course, a selection of rustic French small plates, including – mais bien sur – the option of steak frites.

Much of the food is very good. Sweet, subtle, charred baby leeks came dressed with olive oil and grated hard-boiled egg: a deconstructed gribiche, if you like. The best dish, of curls of aubergine over a puddle of spiced yoghurt, sang with north African notes. I’d happily have eaten two portions. As for the flat iron steak, it had been nicely charred, but if I’m being picky (which is what I’m here to do), it was closer to medium than the medium rare requested. Still, the béarnaise sauce was good, even if a £2 price tag is punchy. More sauce would have elevated the exciting-sounding burger – with crispy shallots and béarnaise – from good to great. There were other minor blips: overseasoned salad, underseasoned greens. All easy to fix.

But while on my Tuesday night visit it was busy, it wasn’t busy enough to justify forgetting one dish entirely (I’ll never know what those beef dripping fries are like) and bringing an extra steak I never ordered. This place just needs a tiny bit of finesse, but as a neighbourhood bistro, it’s still better than plenty you’ll find in Paris.