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Please note, Brady's has now closed. Time Out Food editors, MARCH 2020.
In its new premises by the waterfront just south of Wandsworth Bridge, Brady’s has created a bright, airy, maritime-themed space both indoors and out. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out over patio decking, and it just needs a wheeling seagull or two to transport diners to the seaside.
The fish on offer is good quality: simply grilled sea bream had soft, succulent flesh, crisp skin and was superbly fresh. Battered cod was firm and flaky with the lightest, crunchiest of batters. Starters – beetroot-dressed smoked salmon, prawn cocktail in a sundae glass, served with brown bread and butter – proved solid, retro fare. Chips are uniform in cut and far from thrice-cooked, but fluffy and crunchy all the same. Sauces – an entire collection of creamy, fresh-herbed jarfuls are presented at each table – are a plus.
Puds run from crumbles to light, milky ices. This new incarnation is spanking clean and bright, with a welcoming bar (try a pint of Shepherd Neame Spitfire), and good value at all levels.