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Brasserie de Malmaison

Diners head down a winding iron staircase in the Malmaison hotel to this stylish basement brasserie: an intimate space furnished in rich colours, with subdued lighting and comfortable seating. The menu majors in French-based classics, with boeuf bourguignon and roast poussin sitting alongside a slightly more adventurous ‘Homegrown & Local’ section, containing the likes of fried skate cheeks with chorizo and bean stew. A Malmaison salad was fresh and plentiful: full of haricots verts, asparagus and crumbled ricotta, with fennel adding a welcome edge. Seared scallops arrived with morsels of caramelised pineapple and crisp pancetta, plus a creamy cauliflower purée; the dish worked, the sweet and salty ingredients making an effective foil for the soft scallops. A main course of halibut with grilled asparagus and sauce vierge featured a chunky piece of fish, but was rather bland. Pork fillet with puy lentils and mashed potato was better; the pork was perfectly cooked, and the lentils were paired with a thick, slightly unctuous apple and mustard gravy that was full of flavour, while the pommes purée was a lovely creamy mash. A pudding of bakewell tart was OK, if not exceptional. In all, a bit hit and miss.
Venue name: Brasserie de Malmaison
Address: Malmaison, 18-21 Charterhouse Square
Opening hours: Breakfast served 7-10am Mon-Fri; 8-10.30am Sat, Sun. Brunch served 11am-3pm Sun. Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-10pm daily.
Transport: Tube: Barbican tube/Farringdon tube/rail
Price: Main courses £12-£20. Set meal £15.50 2 courses, £17.50 3 courses.

Average User Rating

2 / 5

Rating Breakdown

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1 person listening

My friends and I had dinner last night in Malmaison. The food was (generally) very tasty but the service wasn't. One of our friend's starter came 20 minutes late. Then the sauce for his stake was the wrong one and the correct one came 10 minutes later. My other friend's peppercorn sauce tasted weird; the waiter kindly acknowledged that. I had the burger which was great (good meat, big, well prepared) and my friends said their stakes were really nice. The waiter was polite and didn't charge for the two stakes. We still paid 50 quid a head (with 2 bottles of wine for 4 people) . For that money we expected more...