Bukowski Grill

Time Out says

Tue Jul 31 2012

Brixton became a highlight on the London burger map when Honest Burgers opened in 2011. But now there’s a rival on its patch – Bukowski Grill, the second branch of the original at Boxpark, Shoreditch.

The new grill has the studied nonchalance and rustic design features you might expect of a restaurant in either of Brixton’s covered markets: patches of exposed brick and rows of worn wooden tabletops emerge from the soft glow of hanging lamps.

Along the back wall is the kitchen, spitting out Hereford beef patties at a fair pace. The burger of the month when we visited, christened ‘The Black and Blue’ after the combination of blackened burger and blue cheese, was near enough to the medium rare requested and well-complemented by pickles and fried onions. The ‘Chicano’ pulled pork was a bit disappointing in comparison, with the promised flavours of chilli, red onion and coriander not as powerful as they could have been.

The own-made ketchup was fruity and a nice touch, while the skinny chips proved very moreish, having been fried in beef dripping.

Bukowski Grill doesn’t match up to the lofty standards of Honest Burgers around the corner, but the crowds on our visit suggest that locals have large enough appetites to sustain both burger joints.