This branch, which opened in October 2008, is an offshoot of the popular Notting Hill original. Spread over one floor with a bar area in front of the dining room, the setting is country-chic (with distressed wooden furniture and mismatched chairs). However, it’s clear the look came from a design studio rather than second-hand shops. Wooden crates, sheaves of wheat and miscellaneous sacks nestling under the butcher’s-block waiter station are a little twee, but the overall effect is as cosy as a country kitchen, and Bumpkin has a welcoming, convivial feel. The daily-changing menu is seasonal and modern, with many ingredients sourced in the UK. Starters of charcuterie and pan-fried Scottish mackerel with mixed leaves and citrus dressing were good, but overshadowed by a wonderfully comforting plate of macaroni and cheese, and an excellent ribeye steak with chips and béarnaise sauce. The only letdown was a bland grilled squash, broccoli and pumpkin-seed salad. A generous portion of sticky date pudding with butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice-cream provided a satisfyingly sweet finish. Bumpkin has a decent cocktail list and mixes great bloody marys, making this a tempting choice for weekend brunch.