Capote y Toros gets full marks for ambience and impromptu Spanish dancing, but the food on our visit couldn’t keep pace. The venue specialises in sherry and tapas, but you’d be better off sipping a manzanilla and listening to Spanish guitar with the singing chef, than ordering a full dinner. It’s a shame, as the other two restaurants in the neighbouring trilogy (Cambio de Tercio and Tendido Cero) both execute their tapas with more refinement.
That said, there’s still some innovation on the menu; reinvented patatas bravas arrived as small new potatoes hollowed out and filled with smooth tomato sauce. Pork cheeks are slow-cooked so the leaner muscles hold all the flavour; ours were just on the point of collapsing, but the oloroso sherry sauce was too sweet. A similar sauce was served with the pork meatballs. Nor did the garlic chicken bring any surprises or depth of flavour, being little more than strips of breast in garlic oil.
The sherry list does make its mark, however, containing over 100 varieties covering finos and manzanillas, amontillados and moscatels. Ask the barman for his recommendations.