© Britta Jaschinski
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Tue Sep 28 2010
Chaat has a lot going for it. It’s located in the hippest street in ultra-fashionable Shoreditch; it has a charming, engaging young female owner, Shanaz Khan; and unusually, it serves home-style Bangladeshi dishes, not the Anglo-Moghul cooking found in most Brick Lane curry houses.
This is simple fare: comfort food for British diners of Bangladeshi parentage. The menu’s aimed squarely at Shoreditch trendies, with five multiple-choice columns listing dishes in English translation. Keema was the pick of the main courses, the lamb mince pleasingly spiced with cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. Niramish, a Bengali vegetarian dish, lacked delicacy in flavour or texture. A shredded lentil and cabbage dish also lacked finesse, though we appreciated the ‘panch phoran’ Bengali spicing.
Dishes can suffer when they aim for the broadest appeal; a starter of paneer roti wrap, ‘rolled in crisp salad and a hot ’n’ herby mayo’, might have been the creation of a sandwich-chain focus group (looking good, but tasting bland). Not so the own-made dip using naga morich, the world’s hottest chilli on the Scoville scale, which fortunately has been diluted to make it palatable, and provides the right kick for milder dishes.
Chaat 36 Redchurch Street