The enduring appeal of this outpost of Brittany is easy to understand: an endearingly chaotic informality; a spacious yet homely wood- and wicker-clad dining area populated by couples, families, parties of friends; authentic regional cuisine served with Gallic charm; a flexible menu and cider/wine list. And a terrific riverside view at the back. On our last visit, we were greeted with an apologetic explanation of a menu substitution; walnuts were missing from the baked goat’s cheese salad; and the menus were falling apart despite their duct tape plasters. But it somehow didn’t matter a jot.
Better-than-competent execution of both Breton and classic bistro dishes was punctuated with friendly chat about the exact composition of the Yermatt cocktail and the ‘real’ way of drinking Breton cider (from earthenware pichets, served in rustic bowls). The precision of the saucing (cider beurre blanc, tarragon-scented béarnaise, sweet caramel) and of the puff pastry and galettes justifies the prices – which can mount up. Finish with an apple and caramel crêpe, complete with calvados flambé.
|Venue name:||Chez Lindsay||Contact:|
11 Hill Rise
|Opening hours:||Crêperie Meals served 11am-10.45pm Mon-Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses £3.95-£11.50. Restaurant Meals served noon-10.45pm Mon-Sat; noon-10pm Sun|
|Price:||Main courses £10.75-£25. Set meal (noon-7pm Mon-Fri) £12.75 2 courses, £15.75 3 courses; (noon-7pm Sat, Sun) £23.75 2 courses £27.75 3 courses|
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