Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Thu Sep 20 2012
What used to be a branch of the Grand Union pub chain has been taken over by the Soho House group and converted into a swanky pizzeria on the ground floor (their third branch of Pizza East), a tiny burger shack (called Dirty Burger) around the back, and this rotisserie in the basement.
As you descend the stairs it’s clear you’re in hipster heaven – low lighting, pressed tin ceiling, faux-factory fittings. It’s like a little bit of Brooklyn, or a Shoreditch speakeasy bar, in Kentish Town. The service is cheery, and fast – but you might have to queue, and you can expect to be in and out in under an hour. Bookings are not taken.
The choices are chicken, more chicken, or a whole chicken. The roast chicken is served on enamel platters within seconds of ordering. Half a chicken – enough for two people – costs £8. Side dishes include crinkle-cut fries, coleslaw, corn grilled on the cob. Apple pie is brought with a huge jug of cream, with lashings of nostalgia for a time that never was.
There’s a small bar, but most people sup while they eat. Camden Pale Ale (brewed just around the corner) is served on draught at £2.50 for a half pint, or there are glasses of wine – ‘House’, ‘Decent’, or ‘Good’ (£4, £5 or £6).
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