An offshoot of Westminster’s classy Cinnamon Club, this more casual venue specialises in small plates inspired by pan-Indian flavours and western presentation. Don’t be deterred by the dark and narrow ground floor and basement dining areas – the cooking, overseen by talented executive chef, Vivek Singh, is the real attraction.
Try, for instance, the Punjabi-style gingery lamb mince, topped with crisp-crusted juicy brain fritters sharpened by a kick of lime. Remember to order breads for mopping up the marvellous masala. Lighter in texture, South Indian quinoa salad, seasoned with curry leaves, mustard seeds and chopped tomatoes, provides plenty of splendid citrus notes. An Indo-Chinese chilli chicken collaboration was so good that we ordered second helpings of the delectable seared morsels with their sweet and garlicky soy-chilli glaze.
An outstanding ox cheek vindaloo featured tender meat in an unbeatable, almost pickled, garlicky masala. The only glitch was laal maas, a supposedly fiery lamb curry from Rajasthan, let down by a shortfall in chilli heat. The young service team needs to invest more energy in getting to grips with the menu, and promoting it to curious diners unsure of what to order.