Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
Time Out says
Tue Nov 30 1999
The name is misleading; this is no let's-muck-in-together Books For Cooks café, as the smattering of cookbooks here are merely used as shelf decorations (they do hold occasional cookery demonstrations though). Most of the time this is just an all-day brasserie with self-service buffet, set in a smart Mayfair business hotel . And as buffets go, it's very good indeed. There's a short à la carte option listing the lowest common denominators of international dishes - chicken caesar salad, steak baguette, fishcakes - but the £25 buffet is more inspired. Cumbrian ham and bresaola arrives unbidden with good grissini and other breads. From a counter laden with a score of starter salads you can load up with celeriac remoulade, char-grilled artichokes, a salad of slightly-too-firm chickpeas, Puy lentils, orecchiette pasta, grated carrot and sultana
just remember to stop. Soup is part of the big meal deal: on our visit, a textbook-perfect French onion soup with fresh thyme. In contrast, the day's choice of main courses were a bit dull; plain red snapper on rice with a side serving of mango salsa prepared much earlier, or fat fingers of green and white asparagus with new potatoes and hollandaise sauce. We were looking forward to the cornucopia of desserts on the so-called 'pastry workshop' counter, but were scuppered by the day's special of vanilla-flecked rice pudding with poached strawberries and mint pesto; it was such an irresistible dish we left no room for anything else. Around us, grey-suited businessmen were feeding silently, like antelope and wildebeest around a watering hole. If this was central Soho, there would be queues out the door for a £25 buffet like this. But on Park Lane, the result is a soulless atmosphere that not even a good-looking taupe and parchment interior, appealing food or charming service could dispel.
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