There’s no denying that Clapton is in the throes of gentrification, and with an organic deli, creperie, British bistro and thriving street market amongst its offerings, Chatsworth Road is the veritable epicentre of the reinvention.
Having stocked up on organic vegetables and general bric-a-brac from the market, a raft of well-to-do families and young creative types had made their way down to Cooper and Wolf on our Sunday visit. Perusing the weekend papers, sipping on coffees made with single estate beans from small batch roastery Caravan and tucking into Swedish-inspired food – the second-hand tables were packed.
A colourful open sourdough sandwich topped with beetroot salad and a generous pile of cold meatballs proved a satisfying dish. Our veggie choice (of which there are many) was less compelling. Their Swedish pytt-i-panna consists of fried bacon and potato cubes with an egg on top – the veggie one is the same, but with the pork omitted. At £7 for some under-seasoned potato with an egg on top, it seemed a little steep.
Cooper and Wolf does however makes a welcome addition to an already thriving food destination, and may just bring Clapton that step closer to an aspirational family neighbourhood.