Corrigan's Mayfair
Corrigan's Mayfair
Tom Baker
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Aug 1 2012
Corrigan’s is everything you’d hope for from a Mayfair restaurant, right down to the ruminative pianist. The setting is reverential, but doesn’t confuse serious with stiff-backed – there are feathered lampshades, stood on metal birds’ feet; a portrait of Dizzy Gillespie trumpets a bouquet of flowers; even the bread is served in jocularly rustic flowerpots. Above all, the food is excellent (good value, too, on the £27 Sunday lunch menu, notwithstanding a £2 cover charge and wines priced to the lower heavens). Despite an emphasis on heavy meats and seafood, nothing is staid. The rich flavour of black pudding croquettes, perfectly combining crunch and tenderness, was neatly cut by the sweetness and sharp acidity of pickled vegetables; sea bream en papillote was similarly perked up with preserved lemon; and lamb cutlet with peas and broad beans oozed summer contentment. The cooking is precise too – not just for a test-case rhubarb crumble soufflé, but also creating triumphantly contrasting textures in the ‘crispy hen’s egg, English asparagus and onion ash’. Service manages to be attentive without becoming fussy, with even the pre-dessert crumb-scraper charmingly deployed. A place for a treat, then, and an admirable one.
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