Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Michael Franke
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Jun 14 2012
Housed on the ground floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Dinner does seem a little corporate in appearance. The main draw of the dining room is the futuristic glass-fronted kitchen, where you can watch the chefs at work. If you’re after a cheaper version of the Fat Duck, then best keep saving your pennies – this is a rather different animal.
The menu, devised by Heston Blumenthal and his right-hand man Ashley Palmer-Watts (who heads the kitchen), takes its essence from historical British dishes. With a bit of innovation, these are transformed into something befitting a fine-dining establishment. No meal here would be complete without trying the Tudor-inspired ‘meat fruit’. It didn’t disappoint: cool, unctuous chicken liver parfait came cloaked in a zingy mandarin jelly, which bore an impressive resemblance to the said fruit.
With the exception of the umami-rich and slightly viscous cockle ketchup that accompanied our roast halibut, the mains, though all cooked with precision, lacked wow factor.
On to the puds; our expectations were met by the much-lauded tipsy cake. The spit-roasted pineapple was intense and smoky, while the hot, sticky, custardy brioche made us feel a little nostalgic. Unselfconscious, friendly service helped make this a special night.
The wine list is extensive, but predictably expensive, with bottles starting at £35.
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