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What’s this? A former Deptford supper club taking permanent residence in a railway arch? Sounds like textbook hip-restaurant gold to me. The compact space is set up to be just that: think exposed bricks, glowing tealights, the occasional theatrical flame from an open kitchen and cocktails with herbs in (as I say, textbook). It’s lovely and buzzy, yet relaxed.
Of the booze, a rosemary-infused, sweet-sharp and syrupy grapefruit G&T was beautifully balanced and as good as it got. Foodwise, chicken, chorizo and manchego parcels were generously meaty, while ricotta and leek bruschetta worked well flavourwise but were bread-heavy and topping-light.
A chewy rump steak and red pepper masala with coconut and cardamom rice – although piled high – had a student cookbook vibe, and didn’t justify the £14 price tag. Dessert, a white chocolate mousse with a digestive-like crumble and fresh raspberries, was the same: good, but something you could knock up at home. Even the cosy vibe became trying when my friend had to get up and ask for their dessert. Which is a shame, because Dirty Apron otherwise nails it on atmosphere. Next time, I’ll stick to the drinks.