Draft House

Time Out says

Fri Jun 8 2012

This fine operation joins fellow Draft Houses in Northcote Road, Battersea Bridge Road and Tower Bridge Road – the group is certainly beginning to develop the look of a small chain, but that’s not always a bad thing. Its model is to uphold the traditional values of a pub and combine them with a modern respect for well-brewed beer and decent food.

In East Dulwich, the Draft House has occupied an oddly multi-level place: a small area at the front leads up to the bar, which then leads back down to a further drinking area, like a licensed Escher etching. And that bar is a joy: there are 18 beers on draught, including three casks. You’ll spot the unusual Budvar yeast beer as well as a couple from Camden Brewery. Thirds of a pint are available for the indecisive, the impecunious or the inquisitive. By the bottle are 50-plus brews – not an enormous range, but a manageable one – and staff seem to genuinely care if you’re enjoying your beer, and are able to offer advice.

The selection roves the world and takes in the fairly commonplace brews such as Little Creatures and Anchor as well as the lesser-spotted Left Hand Milk Stout from Colorado, and the always welcome Odell’s from the same state (its 90/- is as good an interpretation of the classic Scottish heavy as you’ll drink anywhere).

Food is fairly straightforward (own-made bar snacks such as scotch eggs, olives, scratching, burgers, steaks etc), and every dish comes with a beer recommendation – a nice touch.