E Pellicci

Time Out says

Tue Jun 12 2012

You go to Pellicci’s as much to dine on the atmosphere as the food. Opened in 1900, and still in the hands of the same family, this Bethnal Green landmark has an almost-opulent appearance that conjures up some mythical caff culture where the spoons were silver rather than greasy. The gobsmacking decor – chrome and Vitrolite outside, wood panelling with deco marquetry, Formica tabletops and stained glass within – earned the café a Grade II listing in 2005.

The food (steadfastly everyday) is prepared with pride by Mama Maria, queen of the kitchen since 1961. Her children, Anna and Nevio Junior, serve it up with a wink. You might wonder at how the staff are on first-name terms with so many customers, until they start using yours. It’s this vibrant welcome (and occasional mickey-taking) that makes the place so special. Recommended are the fry-ups, spaghetti ‘Toscana’, Friday fish ’n’ chips, and desserts from bread pudding to Portuguese pasteis de nata.