Earl Spencer

Time Out says

Mon Jul 23 2012

Just the place for a well-pitched meal, the Earl Spencer is popular, yes, but has the distinct advantage of space. It feels every inch a proper Edwardian pub, the bar (with three real ales) bang in the middle of a cavernous room. The venue appeals to anyone who appreciates inviting food and audible conversation; it’s so devoid of faddishness and focused on decent grub that the epithet ‘gastropub’ – with its increasing connotations of the assembly line – doesn’t quite do it justice.

Justin Aubrey’s menu changes daily and is posted online like clockwork. Such care extends to the dishes themselves: prepped and primped, tweaked and tuned, always with the welcome addition of own-baked bread (no extra charge). A weekend lunch can stretch as long as you desire, no questions asked. Our moreish duck salad was polished off with unseemly haste. Chickpea fritters with salsa and sour cream, soft-centred and crisply coated, were deserving of a dedicated veggie restaurant. To finish, a large helping of eton mess was on the tidy side, with its neat wedge of soft meringue, but respectable nonetheless.

Denizens of SW18 are spoiled here: every neighbourhood should have an Earl Spencer.