If walls could talk, no doubt they’d have plenty to say at this former Victorian curiosity shop in Borough. But Edwin Brady’s ‘Hole in the Wall’ closed down moe than a century ago, and you won’t find stuffed animals, skeletons or jars of formaldehyde here today. Instead, the most gory item on offer is rare-roasted venison, because this is the latest venture from Parched Pubs and the focus is food, not phantasmagoria.
Other than the name – a homage to Mr Brady – this airy dining room above the Trinity pub only nods to its former self with an antique candelabra here, a heavy curtain there, and retro-chic fittings.
The Modern European dishes are well-prepared and presented. Our strips of tender rabbit arrived atop a crisp polenta cube with a gravy earthy enough to make any bunny feel at home. A plate of paella-like orzo pasta cooked in a rich seafood sauce and topped with pan-fried cod was also packed with flavour. Unfortunately, a deep-fried filo parcel tasted so little of the scallop it encased that they could have smuggled just about anything in there.
From sherry bars to French bistros and new-wave Italians, SE1 has no shortage of decent eateries these days, but for the curious diners, there’s now another one to tick off the list.
By Celia Plender