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Please note, Edwins has now closed. Time Out Food editors, FEBRUARY 2020.
If walls could talk, no doubt they’d have plenty to say at this former Victorian curiosity shop in Borough. But Edwin Brady’s ‘Hole in the Wall’ closed down moe than a century ago, and you won’t find stuffed animals, skeletons or jars of formaldehyde here today. Instead, the most gory item on offer is rare-roasted venison, because this is the latest venture from Parched Pubs and the focus is food, not phantasmagoria.
Other than the name – a homage to Mr Brady – this airy dining room above the Trinity pub only nods to its former self with an antique candelabra here, a heavy curtain there, and retro-chic fittings.
The Modern European dishes are well-prepared and presented. Our strips of tender rabbit arrived atop a crisp polenta cube with a gravy earthy enough to make any bunny feel at home. A plate of paella-like orzo pasta cooked in a rich seafood sauce and topped with pan-fried cod was also packed with flavour. Unfortunately, a deep-fried filo parcel tasted so little of the scallop it encased that they could have smuggled just about anything in there.
From sherry bars to French bistros and new-wave Italians, SE1 has no shortage of decent eateries these days, but for the curious diners, there’s now another one to tick off the list.