Esarn Kheaw
Esarn Kheaw
Ming Tang Evans
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
It doesn’t look like anyone has changed the decor at Esarn Kheaw since the restaurant first opened its doors in 1992. The kitsch, minty-green dining room (with dark wooden timbers in patterns along the walls) is hung with slightly faded clippings of past awards, as well as the obligatory pictures of the Thai royal family.
Despite the furnishings, the venue has a loyal local following – and justifiably so, as the kitchen prepares some impressive authentic north-eastern (Esarn) dishes. One such example is a bamboo-shoot salad laced with hot, smoky, dried chilli, sesame seeds and plenty of fish sauce. It didn’t look like much, but the dish certainly packed a punch: seriously savoury and spicy too. Ask for it mild if you don’t cope well with chilli, and the same goes for the papaya salad. Own-made Esarn sausage (another speciality) was garlicky, sour and rich with fatty pork, while a more typical red chicken curry looked the part with slightly bitter pop-in-the-mouth pea aubergines and a decent balance of hot, sweet and salty flavours. The staff can be abrupt at times, but they’re very well meaning with it.
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