Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
Opposite its sibling Italian restaurant Mediterraneo, just off the Portobello Road, tiny Essenza feels like it’s glaring balefully at its brash big sister. But an intimate setting and understated modern decor are part of its charm. In the evening sun, we took a table just inside the restaurant, where a breeze and open french windows let us people-watch in the best Italian style. Service was the right side of leisurely to allow this, and staff were friendly and efficient. So, with everything nicely set up, would the food deliver? It did, but intermittently. Veal in lemon sauce, and squid in a tomato sauce, were robust and generous, and benefited from a side order of light, crispy battered courgettes. A bowl of plump, orange mussels was perfect. But why put bland tomatoes, rubbery mozzarella and a measly limp basil leaf in a classic salad where the ingredients are everything? And why have five veal dishes on a small à la carte menu? Still, the fish selection is strong, and desserts – the likes of panna cotta and affogato – are pleasingly authentic. A decent wine list and excellent espresso convinced us that Essenza has nothing to feel small about.
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