Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 31 2012
Tom Jones and his family raise sheep on the Welsh borders. Their neighbours raise pigs and cattle. Those extraordinary meats, all from native breeds and all of the highest quality, are cooked with exceptional skill at one of Kentish Town’s well-established boozers. The food’s served in huge portions, and sold at absurdly low prices.
You can’t predict exactly what you’ll find here because the menu changes every day. But outstanding regular features include steaks (the cut changing from day-to-day), cured beef served with cheese and pickles, and (almost) a bucket of cottage pie – the beef chopped, not minced – topped with mashed root veg. A plate of baba ganoush and hummous would feel comfortable in any high-grade Mediterranean restaurant. The gooey, savoury rarebit topped with a fried egg is a thing of beauty. The pork meatballs in tomato sauce are tremendous and very tasty.
Three small warnings about Farmer TJ. One: the menu isn’t split into starters and mains, so it takes a little getting used to. Two: because some dishes are cheaper than others, you might be led to thinking that they are starters. In fact, the portions are so ample that a single main course can suffice, though sharing a starter usually works out well. Three: if you are used to bland, supermarket-type meat, the profound flavour of the well-hung meats here may come as a shock.
The room at the back is the best place to eat, though you may have to place your order at the bar. This system can lead to some queuing and service can be a bit slow (the kitchen is tiny). These drawbacks become insignificant when you consider that no dish costs more than £15, and you can eat fabulous food for £25 or less.
Service (often from Mr Jones himself) is neighbourly, relaxed and eager not just to please but to educate. You want to talk breeds and hanging time? You can do it here. Take urgent note: this is one of the best places to eat in Kentish Town.
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