Fat of the Land
© Ming Tang-Evans
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Posted: Wed Jun 27 2012
Third time’s a charm, or so we’re told. Walking into the latest pub from the crew behind the Queen’s Head & Artichoke and the Norfolk Arms, it certainly like they'd got things right this time. The décor and the menu are more lean and fashionable than at either of FOTL’s siblings: black and grey meets expensive oak and exposed bricks (though the hams swaying in the window are a common feature). The compact Catalan-slanted tapas menu is equally modish.
Yet on our visit, the experience was a touch shambolic. Our reservation had been misplaced, and the upstairs dining room, smart and airy though it was, had a lingering just-painted smell. We took our chances and waited for a table in the lively ground floor bar, sipping sherry (a fine oloroso from Hidalgo – though perhaps too fine, as they had just run out and could only provide 50ml) and a cold pint of draught Mahou (a mainstream Spanish lager).
Having spied a spice-crusted and spatchcocked baby chicken that smelled as good as it looked, we broke our ‘no chicken’ rule to order it. But when it arrived, it was the pale cousin to the one we spotted earlier. Another table, we noticed, had just received a similarly nude specimen. Our waiter, unable to explain the discrepancy, went off to ask a manager and never returned. We can only assume they ran out of fully-spiced versions and hoped no one would notice. Still, the meat was tender and juicy, while the accompaniment of sweet prunes and toasted pistachios (a twist on the more traditional Catalan mix of raisins and pine nuts), set over a heap of wilted spinach, worked well.
Elsewhere, a trio of ham croquetas and a classic tortilla were properly cooked. A small bowl of escalivada (a sort of Catalan ratatouille, made with chunky aubergines, tomatoes, chilli and onions) was decent, but not outstanding. The cold dish of broad beans and baby squid (swimming in their own ink) was in the same vein.
Which sums this place up: a stylish spot where the cooking is good but not great. Living off ‘the fat of the land’ means having the very best of what’s available. This restaurant and bar may already be buzzing with well-heeled residents and workers, but if it wants to stand shoulder to shoulder with the exceptional Spanish restaurants of nearby Fitzrovia, it’ll need to work that bit harder.
Fat of the Land 35 New Cavendish Street
- Venue phone:
020 7487 3030
- Venue website:
- Opening hours:
Tapas served 10am-10pm daily
Tube: Bond Street, Oxford Circus or Regent's Park tube
Fat of the Land
- 35 New Cavendish Street
- 020 7487 3030
- 35 New Cavendish Street
- Fat of the Land
Average User Rating
3 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:2
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:2
- 1 star:3
We got a table for three in the upstairs area - which was quiet and lacking in any atmosphere. the staff were friendly and took our drinks order of three beers straightaway but we waited a good 10-15 minutes for them to materialise. Slightly odd in a pretty quiet restaurant. We ordered a mixture of plates to share - the serrano ham turned up first - this was excellent but was sadly the best thing we ordered. We waited an age for the other plates - again very odd as by now the restaurant was pretty dead even downstairs. The greek salad was tiny and overpriced, the halloumi pretty jmuch burnt, as were the fish cakes, the veal skewer was tasteless and the accompanying gloop too sweet. The pork belly was the best but not a standout. The roasted pepper bland. All in all pretty damn average with no great flavour punch at all. And quite expensive for a Sunday lunch at £40 a head with only a couple of drinks each. Would not return or recommend.
Took my gf there for her birthday and strangely I sat at the same table for the third time in a row! Anyway, so the food was awesome. Very affordable too, if you take into account the quality of the food you're swallowing. The atmosphere is great once the Diners take their seats. It's very intimate and the lights are low for the wine to flow. The wine choices are excellent here too. The sea food paella is great. Great selection of tapas and very tasty As I say, affordable romance at its best. Lovely. Will definitely go again. Visited September 2013
Hace unos dias estuvimos cenando alli con los amigos y a pesar de que el sevicio es deficiente la paella estaba espectacular, nos recordó a las de la playa de malvarosa en Valencia, buenisima. Pero las tapas no estaban nada mal , la comida buenisima. Gracias por tener un rinconcito de españa en londres.
I went last week with 3 friends from work for a leaving do. We had 3 bottles of OKish but overpriced white wine (24 quid each) some totally forgetable nibbles (the cheese was sweating more than we were) and 4 glasses of white wine and this was 30 quid a head. Now the decor is fine, no loud music a bonus and the toilets are clean. However, every time we tried to request something, we had to repeatedly catch the waitress attention, even though it was not busy and before we had even finished speaking we ended up addressing the back of her head as she couldnt even be bothered to look at us. Plates arrived and were just dumped down in front of us. When it came to leaving time the waiter who served us was so unpleasant we wondered what on earth we could have done to offend him apart from stumping up a heft chunk of money per head. Really really bad service. We wont be going back. Avoid at all costs.
Stylish decor and authentic tasty food at prices surprisingly fair for the west end. The pork paella is a revelation! Different but interesting tapas not just the usual suspects.
Nice atmosphere downstairs, farily bland food. Donostia and Providores in the neighbourhood are far superior tapas.
Great Patta Negra but then went downhill fast everything else dire, sent steak back twice, tough as old boots not even an apology waiter who shruged his shoulders and deducted from bill, one to avoid plenty of other great places around.
I've been a couple of times to this Catalan tapas bar and have loved it every time. The food has been consistently good, and the service is chirpy and efficient. I would certainly recommend it and it's a nice spot for after work drinks when you just want a small bite to eat. Thumbs Up!
The manager of this restaurant has no customer service skills whatsoever. I am astonished that he has any customers at all with the attitude he has. We will never visit again and will encourage our friends to do the same. This has been one of our worst culinary experiences.