‘Fungi are fascinating and ecologically crucial,’ he says. ‘Most
mushrooms have a relationship with trees so knowing some of them is a
key way to learn about fungi. You’ll then start to get a feel for where
things may appear.’
Feature continues
Look for oak, beech and silver birch trees and their companions – the
edible cep or porcini and the bay bolete. Wild food springs up in the
most unexpected places and morels – another prize edible mushroom –
have sprouted on bark-chip mulch used in gardens in south London,
Edmonton and around the Millennium Dome. In spring, expect to see some
seasonal specials: St George’s mushrooms, found in unimproved
grassland, appear around the patron saint’s day and well into May.
Known and savoured as the mousseron in France, it is tasty cooked with
butter, spices and yoghurt and used as a soufflé or flan filling. A
word of warning, though: some mushrooms can cause gastric upsets,
sickness and even death. The fly agaric, the fairytale favourite, with
its distinct red cap and white spots is toxic, and the infamous death
cap is lethal. If in doubt, leave it out of the pan.
There’s more in London’s natural larder, too. You can pickle ash keys
with white wine vinegar, sugar, water and spices. They taste ‘a bit
like capers’, says Drennan, and are a piquant addition to oily fish and
cold cuts of meat. However, they need to be harvested while still green
and tender – bite one to check that it is not too chewy. You can use
elderflowers and elderberries for syrups, lemonade and preserves, and
chickweed can be made into pesto or used raw with wild garlic or ramson
leaves to lift a salad. Wild garlic leaves can be found pushing through
the ivy in shaded areas on Hampstead Heath and ash, elder and chickweed
can be found in most parks, including Hampstead Heath and Wandsworth
Common. By summer and autumn, wild flowers, nuts and berries add to the
great free food treasure trove.
Then there are medicinal uses. London herbalist Heidi Collins gets ‘a
kick out of seeing highly medicinal plants growing out of the cracks in
pavements. Most people walk by without even noticing them.’ She advises
people to stick to collecting from prolific species and recommends
starting in your own back garden. Rosehips from the wild rose shrub are
very high in vitamin C and, says Heidi, ‘during World War II, the
government recommended people use them.’ Fergus Drennan adds: ‘Although
foraged food may remain a novel after-thought to many dishes,
nutritionally speaking, it deserves pride of place.’
Responsible and sustainable picking means collecting only what you need
from abundant sources and making sure that it is not a threatened or
endangered species. Only gather small quantities; with mushrooms it is
good to leave young specimens so they can regenerate and continue to
provide food and habitat for local wildlife, such as butterflies and
insects. In the city, find places away from roads and other sources of
pollution. Foraging is fun; there’s plenty of scratching, sniffing and
tasting, and in his latest book ‘Nature Cure’ (Chatto and Windus,
£7.99), Richard Mabey charts how reconnecting with the countryside
helped him overcome clinical depression. Foraging is not only good for
the palate; it’s also good for the soul.
For more forays into wild food contact Fungi To Be With (07958 786
374/ www.fungitobewith.org) or Wild Man Wild Food
(www.wildmanwildfood.co.uk).
