London's up-and-coming chefs
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By Jenni Muir
Posted: Wed Jul 5 2006 -
One discovered cooking after a disaster with tinned peaches; another put everything she had into opening her own restaurant. Meet the rising stars of London's professional kitchens: creative, inventive and going all out for success
Brett Graham: sublime flavours
The critics’ darling
Brett Graham, 27, The Ledbury
Like many Australians living in London, Brett Graham thought he’d come over, do a bit of work in the UK and then travel. He wanted to see Spain. But it hasn’t worked out as expected. While chefing at The Square in Bruton Street, he was asked to head the kitchen at the owners’ new restaurant The Ledbury in Notting Hill, one of the finalists in the Time Out Awards Best New Restaurant category in 2005. ‘I knew if I didn’t take up the offer, someone else would,’ says the 27-year-old. Critics picked up on Graham’s sublime flavour combinations and attention to detail immediately and, unusually, he won a Michelin star just nine months after opening. Feature continuesAdvertisement‘That’s my proudest achievement as I’d never been a head chef before. What I’ve got to do now is develop the food and take more time to think about what I’m doing rather than just working all the hours God sends.’ Graham’s been in London five-and-a-half years now and, while he quite fancies setting up a restaurant in his home town of Newcastle (about an hour and a half’s drive north of Sydney), he isn’t in any hurry to head back down under. ‘I miss the family and going for a swim in salt water, but the standard of cooking and the consistency are higher here.’ And after all, he still hasn’t been to Spain.
The Ledbury, 127 Ledbury Rd, W11 2AQ (020 7792 9090) Westbourne Park tube.
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3 comments
I went to the Ledbury about a year ago for the first time. I think I am now on my 8th visit. If it is the sort of food you love (check out the menu), low on the number of ingredients for michelin star, then this place is like eating in heaven. I could wax lyrical about the celeriac baked in ash (I only tried it because of we had the tasting menu), the heritage tomato salad, the 24 hour cooked lamb but you need to try it yourself. Lunch is stunning value.
I agree, I followed jeff's advice and google searched Mat Lucania, this guy has done so much and deserves some recognition. me and my boyfriend travelled to his pub and had the most delish meal, the attention to detail in the food and service was great. Mat even came out and said hi, my partner complimented on the wood pigeon so much that he askedthe chef for the recipe, mat glady gave it and I thought that was really nice. I'll keep my eye of this boy over the next couple of years if I were you.
I was hoping to see more up & coming chefs but you only have 1, we dont want to see who runs the top places or who has the michlen star, we want to see the guys in the shadows just starting to make a noise. I can think of a few chefs off your list, like Mat Lucania, kenny atkins etc