Restaurants

  • London's up-and-coming chefs

  • By Jenni Muir

  • chefs6.JPG
    Bjorn van der Horst: fabulously inventive

    The wild card
    Bjorn van der Horst, 33, La Noisette
    Son of a Dutch father and a Spanish mother, born in Switzerland and raised in New York, the UK and France, about to marry a Canadian – 33-year-old Bjorn van der Horst could have pretty well gone anywhere, but has decided to put down roots down in London. This month he will open La Noisette in partnership with Gordon Ramsay Holdings, a restaurant on the site of Jamie Oliver’s former Monte’s and the short-lived Pengelley’s eatery. Van der Horst has been living in London for just over two years, coming to lead the kitchen at Mayfair’s sophisticated Greenhouse, where he acquired a reputation for fabulously inventive dishes such as foie gras with espresso syrup and amaretto foam – a dish he first developed while working in America. Feature continues

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    In January 2006, the Michelin Guide publicly tipped The Greenhouse as a prime contender for a second star; van der Horst left (officially) in early February. ‘It was a tremendous honour, that’s what we strive for, but in the back of my mind I knew I wanted to do my own thing.’ For La Noisette he’s promising whole roasted cuts of meat, rotisserie chicken, tableside cooking and a very light lunch menu. ‘Nothing too philosophical: high-quality ingredients cooked perfectly with straightforward flavours. We had a lot of fun at The Greenhouse, but as time goes on we mature a little – I know I have. I’m very clear now about where I stand and what I enjoy eating.’
    La Noisette, 164 Sloane St, SW1X 9QB (020 7750 5000) Knightsbridge tube. Scheduled to open July 17.

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3 comments

  1. Posted by Margaret Courtney on 18 Oct 2009 18:01

    I went to the Ledbury about a year ago for the first time. I think I am now on my 8th visit. If it is the sort of food you love (check out the menu), low on the number of ingredients for michelin star, then this place is like eating in heaven. I could wax lyrical about the celeriac baked in ash (I only tried it because of we had the tasting menu), the heritage tomato salad, the 24 hour cooked lamb but you need to try it yourself. Lunch is stunning value.

  2. Posted by Daisy French on 18 Sep 2009 02:33

    I agree, I followed jeff's advice and google searched Mat Lucania, this guy has done so much and deserves some recognition. me and my boyfriend travelled to his pub and had the most delish meal, the attention to detail in the food and service was great. Mat even came out and said hi, my partner complimented on the wood pigeon so much that he askedthe chef for the recipe, mat glady gave it and I thought that was really nice. I'll keep my eye of this boy over the next couple of years if I were you.

  3. Posted by Geff Healy on 10 Aug 2009 01:54

    I was hoping to see more up & coming chefs but you only have 1, we dont want to see who runs the top places or who has the michlen star, we want to see the guys in the shadows just starting to make a noise. I can think of a few chefs off your list, like Mat Lucania, kenny atkins etc

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