London's up-and-coming chefs
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By Jenni Muir
Posted: Wed Jul 5 2006 
Nicolas Houchet 'I want to show London something different' Le pâtissier extraordinaire
Nicolas Houchet, 24, Macaron
He can craft a cello from nougatine, bake cakes in the shapes of cars, boats and churches and shape caramel with a dexterity only found in someone who began learning sugar work at school-age, but most of his customers want a chocolate eclair. Nicolas Houchet is the sort of extraordinarily talented young pastry chef you’d expect to find in a starry restaurant in France, but he’s happily ensconced in a cake shop in Clapham. How the hell did that happen? ‘There is not much fine pâtisserie in London and to build something new is a challenge,’ he says. ‘I want to introduce people to new flavours, show London something different, innovate in the area of fine pâtisserie.’ Feature continuesAdvertisementHouchet likes the highly modern work of Yauatcha’s pastry chefs, but knows that down in Clapham he has to progress slowly, so that he can help give customers the confidence to try new texures and flavours. They didn’t like the sound of a pastry made with Earl Grey tea-scented caramel sabayon, but now Le Lingot, which also features layers of apricot and coconut, is a local favourite. Next time you visit, skip the eclair and try Houchet’s sherry cake baked with fresh thyme and pistachios.
Macaron, 22 The Pavement, SW4 0HY (020 7498 2636) Clapham Common tube.
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3 comments
I went to the Ledbury about a year ago for the first time. I think I am now on my 8th visit. If it is the sort of food you love (check out the menu), low on the number of ingredients for michelin star, then this place is like eating in heaven. I could wax lyrical about the celeriac baked in ash (I only tried it because of we had the tasting menu), the heritage tomato salad, the 24 hour cooked lamb but you need to try it yourself. Lunch is stunning value.
I agree, I followed jeff's advice and google searched Mat Lucania, this guy has done so much and deserves some recognition. me and my boyfriend travelled to his pub and had the most delish meal, the attention to detail in the food and service was great. Mat even came out and said hi, my partner complimented on the wood pigeon so much that he askedthe chef for the recipe, mat glady gave it and I thought that was really nice. I'll keep my eye of this boy over the next couple of years if I were you.
I was hoping to see more up & coming chefs but you only have 1, we dont want to see who runs the top places or who has the michlen star, we want to see the guys in the shadows just starting to make a noise. I can think of a few chefs off your list, like Mat Lucania, kenny atkins etc