Restaurants

Nicolas Houchet 'I want to show London something different'

Le pâtissier extraordinaire
Nicolas Houchet, 24, Macaron
He can craft a cello from nougatine, bake cakes in the shapes of cars, boats and churches and shape caramel with a dexterity only found in someone who began learning sugar work at school-age, but most of his customers want a chocolate eclair. Nicolas Houchet is the sort of extraordinarily talented young pastry chef you’d expect to find in a starry restaurant in France, but he’s happily ensconced in a cake shop in Clapham. How the hell did that happen? ‘There is not much fine pâtisserie in London and to build something new is a challenge,’ he says. ‘I want to introduce people to new flavours, show London something different, innovate in the area of fine pâtisserie.’ Feature continues

Houchet likes the highly modern work of Yauatcha’s pastry chefs, but knows that down in Clapham he has to progress slowly, so that he can help give customers the confidence to try new texures and flavours. They didn’t like the sound of a pastry made with Earl Grey tea-scented caramel sabayon, but now Le Lingot, which also features layers of apricot and coconut, is a local favourite. Next time you visit, skip the eclair and try Houchet’s sherry cake baked with fresh thyme and pistachios.
Macaron, 22 The Pavement, SW4 0HY (020 7498 2636) Clapham Common tube.